Care Sheet for ChameleonsAverage Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 3.98 (1=lowest, 5=highest) Last Updated: 10/06/2005 |
Main Category: | Lizards |
Sub Category: | Chameleons |
Care Sheet Submitted By: | Anonymous |
Years Experience: | 1 to 2 Years |
Species: | Veiled Chameleon |
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover: | N/A |
Sexing and Characteristics: | Male Veiled Chameleons, from birth, have an extra toe on the back feet, Females do not. As adults, Males are slightly bigger and have a larger Casque atop their head. |
Mostly Active During: | Day |
Substrate and Water Needs: | Substrates arent really necessary. You can either leave the bottom of the cage bare (If its decent and wont harm the chameleon) or the most common thing to do is line the bottom with paper towels. Cypress Mulch gives the cage a more natural look and feel, however if your chameleon spends alot of time on the ground, then it is not recommended as accidental comsumption is a big worry amongst all breeders and owners.
Veiled Chameleons do not drink out of a dish or bowl. They prefer to drink droplets of water off of leaves as they cannot see standing water. Simply get yourself a spray bottle and mist the cage 2-3 times per day. A drip system is another popular way of distributing water to your chameleon. You can buy them commercially, or make your own with a plastic cup or butter dish. Drip systems may be used along side of your everyday mistings but should never replace them. Be careful however, drip systems can easily flood the cage. I recommend putting a small dish at the bottom of the enclosure, screening it off to prevent drowning, and letting the drip system fall upon the leaves and into the container.
Waterfalls are a common concern amongst owners. While they provide moving water that the chameleon can see, they also easily house lots of bacteria if not mantained correctly. I would strongly advise against using a waterfall, but if you choose to do so, then make absolutely sure that you clean it every 2-3 days with a diluted bleach solution. |
Lighting and UVB: | You will need two types of lights. A UVA (Heat Source) and a UVB. Depending on how large your enclosure is, you might need two Heat lights, but one decently sized uvb bulb will do for most enclosures. Most Chameleons do not like the entire cage to be heated, instead they prefer a basking area to where the heat light is situated diectly above them. Remember to change the UVB bulbs every 5-6 months. Only run your lights in the say time, all light out at night unless the temperature of your house reaches below 60 degrees. |
Temperatures and Humidity: | Temperatures for Veiled range from 90-95 Degrees Farenheit for a basking area, and nowhere below 70 degrees farenheit anywhere else during the daytime. At night Temperatures should be no lower than 60 degrees farenheit at any given time. Anything less would require you to use some sort of nightime heat source (Infared, Ceramic Heat Emitter, Ect). |
Heating and Equipment: | A Clamp Lamp works best for heat, and they arent very expensive. Just sit the lamp directly on top of the cage. You will also need a bulb for your lamp. I recommend Exo-Terra Sun Glow or Zoo Med incandescent bulbs. However you can also use plain white or frosty household bulbs in place of these. They are cheaper and yet still provide an excellent source of heat. Wattage of your bulbs will depend on the size of your enclosure. You will also need a UVB fixture. Most pet stores that carry reptile supplies will carry them. I recommend a 5.0 tropical bulb for your UVB fixture. |
Caging Provided: | It is very important that you do not keep your chameleon in an aquarium or glass enclosure as it lacks ventilation which is what chameleons need. I recommend a full screen enclosure. You can buy one, or simply make your own. making your own is cheaper and more effecient. Cages for babies can be fairly small, but for adults, I would not recommend anything smaller than a 4’x4’x2’ as chameleons like to climb. As always, bigger is better and the more room you can give your chameleon, the happier and safer it will feel. |
Diet: | Omnivorous |
Description of Diet: | Veiled Chameleons eat both plant and vegetable matter. They will take many kinds of insects such as crickets, feeder roaches mealworms, (Make sure that you crush the head before giving them these, they have been known to eat though the lining of the stomach) and Waxworms, (These are very high in fat, and should be given sparingly to your chameleon).
Veileds will also take vegetation as a food source. Live plants such as benjamin ficus, and hibiscus are both favorites. They will often be caught eating the leaves off of live plants.
They will also take fruits and veggies such as apples, and kale. Stay clear of spinach and romain lettuce as they are mostly composed of water and/or can cause impaction problems. When feeding insects such a crickets, you can either free range feed, or place a small container inside the enclosure that the insects cannot get out of. When free ranging, make sure to remove all leftover insects before you turn out the lights. Some insects suc as crickets and cause trouble for your chameleon by either stressing it out, or causing serious eye problems. |
Supplements, Nutrition and Usage: | Vitamin dust is a must have for all chameleon owners. You can dust anything from insects to vegetable matter. However do not overdo it, too much vitamin dust can result in too much calcium and can lead to death. To dust insects, simply place them in a bag and sprinkle a small ammount of dust in, then shake and give to your chameleon. I recommend dust every other day. |
Maintenance: | Maintenance for these creatures is very high. They need a clean, bacteria free enviroment and need proper heat and lighting. They are very hard to take care of and are definitely not for a first time reptile owner. |
Some Words on this Species: | Chameleons are solitary creatures. If you own one, you should have a "Look but dont touch" policy. Chameleons are not very social and get stressed ver easily. They do not like to be held and can rarely be tamed. Very seldom will you come across a chamleon that likes to be held. I would not recommend holding them or even moving them unless you absolutely have to. If you can provide it a happy home, and can deal with the hardships of maintenace and everyday care, then you will truly enjoy this exotic and magnificant creature. |
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