Care Sheet for PythonsAverage Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 4.00 (1=lowest, 5=highest) Last Updated: 11/25/2005 |
Main Category: | Snakes |
Sub Category: | Pythons |
Care Sheet Submitted By: | LZ1271 |
Years Experience: | 5 to 10 Years |
Species: | African Rock Python |
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover: | All phases |
Sexing and Characteristics: | Like most other snakes the female usually reaches longer lengths and becomes heavier than the male. Males being smaller and more slender can usually move surprisingly fast, especially when juveniles. I really did not think that this mattered but when they are in a bad mood, you should be extra careful that you dont get bit. |
Mostly Active During: | Night |
Substrate and Water Needs: | These snakes are pretty easy to take care of When it comes to their bedding you can use pretty much any reptile bedding. These snakes do not require a humid cage. So with that you can use(Newspaper/Towels/wood shavings/coconut fiber/Etc.)The water dish should be big enough to let the snake submerge its entire body under the water. You can get a ex. large water dish when they are little, as son as they get to be around 4-5 feet you should consider other containers. Such as plastic or glass baking dish, cat box, and if youre enclosure is big enough a plastic kiddie pool would be good. You should change the water every day to every other day, except when they relieve themselves in it. You should then change it right away. |
Lighting and UVB: | Lighting for this type of snake is easy. Though a fluorescent light would be helpful, it is not mandatory. If you do not have a fluorescent light and want to give them that extra care, you can always place their cage in front of a window facing the light. But make sure if you do this you place the cage close enough to the window that they receive the heat and light, but are not too close that the temperature in the cage reaches dangerous levels. But no matter what you will still need some other light source. I recommend an overhead basking light that will heat the bottom of the enclosure directly under it to about 80-85 degrees. On the other side of the cage I recommend a black light that is slightly cooler than the basking light. this will let the snake choose the lighting, with dark on one side, bright on the other, and a combination of both in-between. For me When It gets Dark outside I turn off the lights. And when I wake up I simply turn the lights on. |
Temperatures and Humidity: | The temperature should be somewhat arid. some humidity would be OK, but this snake lives mostly in the dry Savannahs of Africa. So with that in mind the middle of the cage (being the place that does not have direct light overhead) should stay around 80-90 degrees. Because this snake does not need a lot of humidity you will not need to spray the cage. The large water dish will help supply the small amount of humidity needed. At night the temperature should stay around 75-85 degrees. |
Heating and Equipment: | A substantial setup for this snake should be one basking light, and one smaller black light on opposite ends of the cage. This snake is nocturnal so to keep the temperatures high enough in the middle of the night you should leave only the black light on (making it bitch black) and to make up for the basking light an under tank heater placed under the tank in the middle of the cage will make the temperature just right. |
Caging Provided: | This snake is fairly easy to provide a large enough cage for. Unlike is cousin the Burmese python, this snake is fairly slender. Which means that a cage suitable foe a 7 rock python would only sustain a 4 Burmese python. So for this, a ten gallon will hold the python until it is about it is 3-4. As soon as it becomes that big you should skip the 20 gallons all the way to 45 gallons. A 55 gallon will old the rock python for another 2-3 years. When the snake gets to about 6-7 you should look for a permanent cage. For me the cage should be half as long as the snake, and as deep as at least 1/3 the length of the cage. So for a 10 python, a 5-2-18 cage would be fine. Now I know they make fish tanks this size, but for a full grown snake it would be too easy to escape or breakout. It is hard to keep a snake that big caged in a 1/4 glass tank with a screen cage. You can look on the Internet for custom built cages. The reason that they are the best way to go is they are made of hard plastic, that is screwed together, and they have locking doors. This will lower the chance of escape dramatically. There are Some websites that I go to (LLL Reptiles/Animal Plastics/Monster Cages/Cages By Design) Most of the cages are actually cheaper than just buying a large fish tank. As far as having 2 snakes in one cage you can down size the size requirements. so instead of doubling the size of the tank, you will only need to add an additional 1/2 to the original snake cage. So if you have 2 10 snakes instead of having a 10-4-3 cage, you will only need a 7.5-3-2 cage. |
Diet: | Carnivorous |
Description of Diet: | Newborns can eat a normal size mouse. Around 3-3.5 they can start eating small to medium size rats. When they get to be about 4 you can switch to extra large rats. They will sustain the snake until it grows to 8. you can then feed them ducks.chickens,rabbits,Guiana pigs,etc. Most captive rock pythons will only reach around 10-14 so with that you can feed them the same things at their full grown size that you would when they are 8. It might help to feed them more often to make up for the size. But this can be costly to feed a snake two 15$ rabbits every week. If you cannot afford this you can think of a different way to feed. I would recommend feeding the python one extremely large meal. It might take them longer to eat it, but it will last them longer. If you live close to a farm or some place you can get farm animals this would help. I know rabbits do not cost as much as Sm. pigs or Sm. goats, but where as you would need 8 chickens or rabbits a month. Feeding them something as large as a Sm. goat would hold them over for a month. I prefer feeding them pre-killed prey because it is more humane and safe for the snake. |
Supplements, Nutrition and Usage: | |
Maintenance: | It is pretty easy to take care of this type of snake. Provide the right lighting, substantial heat, and a big enough cage. Change the water every other day. And clean the cage out every other week and you should be fine. |
Some Words on this Species: | This snake is not for beginners. I only recommend this snake for someone who can spend at least 3-4 hours a week with it. Though most do not grow over 16, their are some that can far surpass that. With the record being 27, This snake is one that should be treated with a lot of respect. I have had mine for a while and she still surprise me with her mood swings. You can somewhat control the size and rate at which they grow by feeding them less and lowering the temperature and humidity in there cage. But I do not recommend that you purchase this snake thinking you can starve them and keep them in a cold cage to make them small. These methods are only used to enhance the size of the snake. (Increasing temperature & Humidity/Feeding more) All in all if you have the means to take proper care of them, and are responsible with the risks at hand, these snake are a great pet. |
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