Average Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 4.33 (1=lowest, 5=highest)Last Updated: 01/02/2006
Main Category:
Snakes
Sub Category:
Ball Pythons
Care Sheet Submitted By:
J-Shrad
Years Experience:
5 to 10 Years
Species:
Python regius
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover:
None
Sexing and Characteristics:
Ball pythons are very unique looking snakes. A normal ball python is black with blotches or spots of brown and tan along its body. Many normals will have an attractive stripe down the back starting at the head and ending anywhere along the body. The ball python has more morphs than any other snake.
Ball pythons have been known to reach lengths of 6’ although it is very rare. More often you will see them ranging from 3’-5’ with females usually ending up around the 5’ mark.
Mostly Active During:
Night
Substrate and Water Needs:
Some popular substrates are paper towel, astroturf, aspen, forest bark, and cypress mulch although other can be used. Try to avoid cedar as it is harmful to your snake. Also stay away from small particle bedding such as corn cob and gravel as they can be ingested during a feeding.
Also provide your ball python with a large enough water dish to soak in. Change water at least every other day but if it gets soiled in change immediately.
Lighting and UVB:
Ball pythons do not require any special UVB lighting as of now. They do however require a photoperiod of 14 hours of light a day and 10 hours a day of no light. This can be slightly altered if needed.
Temperatures and Humidity:
It is crucial to maintain your tank temperatures between 84 and 86 degrees with a basking spot of 90 and a cool spot of 80. Night temperatures can safely drop 4-6 degrees.
Ball pythons are somewhat tropical snakes that require high humidity levels. Providing your snake with humidity is very simple but it is a crucial step in helping your ball python strive.
Humidity levels should be kept at 50%-60% anything higher or lower can harm your snake. There are several ways to keep the humidity up. The most common and easiest way is to provide a large water dish and use a substrate that will trap humidity.
Another effective way to provide the adequate humidity levels is a humid hide. A humid hide can be easily constructed with materials found around the house. Just take a small tupperware container and cut a whole in the top. Fill it about half way with water just like you would a water dish. Now your snake will have a moist retreat to get it in if needed.
Heating and Equipment:
Ball pythons are cold blooded as every reptile is which means that they cannot maintain their own body temperature. There are several methods of heating an enclosure and there really isn’t a "right" way to do it.
Many herpers have turned to UTH (under tank heaters), heat bulbs, and heat emitters or a combo of the three. I myself use an UTH and a heat emitter as they can be left on all day, they don’t create light. Other effective methods of heating are night bulbs (black or red lights). These are essentially used for night time as they produce very little amounts of light and do not disturb your reptile.
Always use a thermometer! Never guess at the temperatures.
Caging Provided:
Glass aquariums have become the most popular method of housing any reptile as they are attractive and they can hold humidity fairly well. If using an aquarium, a 10 gallon would be a sufficient size for a juvenile. Anything larger might stress out your snake and then you might encounter feeding and handling problems.
As your snake grows, its enclosure will also need to expand. The absolute minimum size for an adult ball python is a 29 gallon although larger is always better. Adding height to an enclosure is helpful as most ball pythons will take advantage of an opportunity to climb. Also make sure you purchase or construct a strong lid as all snakes are escape artists.
Now lets get a list of the bare essentials as far as cage decorations go. A large water dish is a must as your ball python will soak, usually before a shed. A hide box or two is also a must. Give your snake various options as far as hot and cold by adding multiple hides at different sides of its enclosure.
Diet:
Carnivorous
Description of Diet:
This can be where caring for your ball python get tricky. Start your juvenile on fuzzy or hopper mice. Pinkies can be used if needed. Feed him roughly once every 5-7 days.
As your snake grows larger, you will need to feed him larger prey. At about 4 months your ball python will be able to consume an adult mouse. Feeds should be a bit less frequent, every 7-10 days.
Once your snake is around a year and a half it will be able to take down a small rat. Now you can make feedings every 10-14 days. Some herpers feed their adult ball pythons every 3-4 weeks so if you miss a feeding, don’t freak out.
If possible, pick a captive bred snake as wild caught are known problem feeders. The main reason for this is ball pythons don’t recognize white mice as prey. In the wild they feed mainly on jerboa. If you come across a problem feeder, try enticing your snake by feeding live once or twice or rubbing a lizard on the mouse so the sent will be there.
Also, some ball pythons will go off feed in the winter months as this prepares them for breeding in the wild. If you snake stops feeding its perfectly alright as long as your snake was healthy when it went off feed.
Supplements, Nutrition and Usage:
As of right now I don’t give my snakes vitamins or calcium supplements. They get all of that through the animals they consume.
Maintenance:
Spot clean the tank daily for feces. Scrub down the enclosure at least once a month.
Some Words on this Species:
Ball pythons are very rewarding animals if properly cared for. In my opinion they are one of the best snakes to have in captivity if you pick up a captive bred specimen.
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