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Cane Toad Care Sheets
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Care Sheet for Toads

Average Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 4.50    (1=lowest, 5=highest)    Last Updated: 01/21/2006

Main Category:

Aquatic/Land

Sub Category:

Toads

 Care Sheet Submitted By:

Contortrix

Years Experience:

10 to 15 Years

Species:

Cane Toad

Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover:

N/A

Sexing and Characteristics:

Females are around 4" snout to vent. Males are typically a little smaller. These toads are some of the hardiest around and can survive most of the beginnerís common herp mishaps and misunderstandings

Mostly Active During:

Night

Substrate and Water Needs:

It depends on how decrative you want the cage to be. They do well on anything from Papertowels to ReptiBark. Caution should be used though as Cane Toads, like all amphibians, have permiable skins. Be aware of your subtrates ingredients as some may seem practical may contain harmfull chemicals. Potting soils are a good example, plenty contain insectcides and other ingredients that could prove deadly to your amphibian.

Lighting and UVB:

None needed, but a photoperiod of 8-12 hours canít hurt.

Temperatures and Humidity:

Cane Toads do well within the tempature range of the average home. (70-80 F should be fine for those of you who live in igloos) A medium-low humidity (around 40) will suffice, but higher wonít hurt. (Although humidity levels about 90 for a extended period of time could prove harmfull)

Heating and Equipment:

An undertank heating mat or Heat lamp will work. Quick rule of tumb: if the tempature is comfotable for you, then it will work for your Cane Toad (unless youíre for some reason cold at 80 F)

Caging Provided:

I keep my Cane Toad in a 20 gal long aquarium with Repibark as subtrate, there is also some cypress multch around his water bowl to help absorb water when he gets in and does whatever he does to get it everywhere the next morning. Apart from a log for him to hide under there is nothing else in the terrarium.

Diet:

Carnivorous

Description of Diet:

Cane Toads can be fed a variety of foods, Crickets, Superworms, exc. Adults grow big enough to devour mice, but they should not be provided as a sole food sorce, but as an occasonal treat. Adults should be fed every 1-2 weeks. Young should be fed more often about twice a week.

Supplements, Nutrition and Usage:

Crickets should be dusted with a pure Calcium supplement to pervent bone loss. This is very important to young toads becuase of their rapid growth.

Maintenance:

The toad should be set aside every month for a complete cage cleaning with a disinfectent, after which all traces of should be washed away with water. Water bowls should be filled when low and be rinsed every week, or when needed, which will be often as these toads have an annoying habit of defecating in their water bowl. Tap water in most parts is safe for these hardy toads, but to be safe I add a store-bought product called ReptiSafe. Its a decloinating agent, adds vitamins and minerals and also helps lower Ph levels.

Some Words on this Species:

Cane Toads come as close to a "pet" as any amphibian can, becoming tame and recognizing their owner. They are one of the very few species of amphibian that will eat inanimate food; they can even be taught to take steak from your fingers!
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DISCLAIMER:
The information contain in these care sheets represents only the opinions and husbandry care of members and therefore is not guaranteed to be 100% accurate or reflects the advice or opinions of RepticZone.com. It is always advised to seek additional information or the advice of a qualified veterinarian or qualified reptile dealer. It is also advisable for you to a good amount of research before implementing any of the ideas and care described in these care sheets. We also recommend you ask many questions in their related forums before acting on any information.

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