Average Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 5.00 (1=lowest, 5=highest)Last Updated: 02/13/2006
Main Category:
Non-Reptile/Amphibian
Sub Category:
Exotic Animals
Care Sheet Submitted By:
Conus_geographus
Years Experience:
3 to 5 Years
Species:
Giant African Land Snails (GALS)
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover:
achatina achatina, achatina fulica, achatina marginata. Most land snails will do well with this care, though some may require slight modification.
Sexing and Characteristics:
Giant Africans are hermaphrodites, meaning that they are both sexes. Even though they are both male and female, they cannot breed with themselves, and require another snail to breed with. Look for the white, brittle ’love dart’, which the snails shoot each other with when breeding. This will occur near the head of the animal. Shells are large and brown, swirled with yellow, taupe and even a green-yellow occasionally, with a pointed, spiraling shape. Body and foot are grey-taupe in various shades.
Mostly Active During:
Both
Substrate and Water Needs:
Substrate: Organic, non-chemically treated substrate is a much. Best substrates are organic compost (made by the owner if necessary), or coir-soil mixes. Peat can be used at the bottom for moisture retention, but tends to be too acidic for the comfort of snails. Substrate must be kept moist, but given chances to dry out to avoid encouraging mites. Change every 1-2 weeks. If you live in a warmer climate, freeze the dirt you are throwing out for a few days in the freezer to avoid accidentally throwing out hidden snail eggs as well.
Water: Snails get water by lapping it up and from food. A shallow water dish may be provided if snails can climb out of dish. Water can be added for improved humidity by spraying with a clean spray gun as needed.
Lighting and UVB:
Snails do not require light, though it is pleasant for added heat and for viewing. A simple incandescent bulb will suffice. Be sure that the snail cannot burn itself on the bulb.
Temperatures and Humidity:
Giant Africans are comfortably active around 21-23 degrees celcius. This temperature can be achieved with a few incandescent bulbs above the tank, a heating mat on one side of the tank (not underneath it, not buried under the substrate).
Snails are comfortable with a bit of humidity, but it is moist substrate that matters. Too much humidity encourages mites to infest the substrate.
Heating and Equipment:
Use a heating mat on one side of the tank or just a few incandescents to keep the temperature comfortable. Otherwise, minimal equipment is required.
Caging Provided:
An aquarium tank with a mesh cover. Size is not the most important. 10 gallons can house 2 or 3 snails. Other suitable tanks include acrylic and plexiglas. Never use wood, it will expand and rot when exposed to moisture for extended periods of time
Diet:
Herbivorous
Description of Diet:
Lots of green matter including lettuces (no iceberg), spinach and radish greens. Fruits such as apples and berries are healthy too. Avoid vegetables with too much fiber, which are tough to eat and digest.
Supplements, Nutrition and Usage:
A cuttlebone is a must. This calcium supplement makes it possible for the animal to build a strong shell while growing, mend damage and generally maintain the shell.
Maintenance:
Change the substrate every 1-2 weeks. Glass should be cleaned with a clean, chemical-free bristle brush, natural cleaners such as vinegar or baking soda, taking care to rinse away traces of cleaner before reintroducing the snails.
Some Words on this Species:
Take care not to introduce these species into the wild, as they are potentially dangerous species which can devastate an ecosystem. With proper care taken, they can be fascinating pets for all ages, and are very calm to watch.
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