Care Sheet for FrogsAverage Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 3.50 (1=lowest, 5=highest) Last Updated: 05/01/2006 |
Main Category: | Aquatic/Land |
Sub Category: | Frogs |
Care Sheet Submitted By: | PaulWTAMU |
Years Experience: | 10 to 15 Years |
Species: | Horned frogs |
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover: | Anything sold as a pacman or horned frog will probably be OK with this. |
Sexing and Characteristics: | Not possible with babies, which are what is normally for sale. With adults, males are smaller, and can have a black throat patch. They’ll also call, a loud, harsh sound. |
Mostly Active During: | None |
Substrate and Water Needs: | People say lots of things about this. My take on it is that, in nature, these frogs burrow into leaf litter and soil on the rain forest floor. Some people will say use water as the substrate; that is not what these frogs evolved for. I personally use the following: 2-3 inches of coarse gravel, covered with fine mesh screening (window screening). Cover the mesh with 5-6 inches of topsoil or something similar--dirt is your friend! Make sure it is chemical and manure free. I then put live moss (look at garden centers for it) on top of that, and let ’er grow.
Everyone I’ve read says give them a large water dish; I used to, but am now experimenting without one. Going on three months now and no ill effect. I’d include one of you’re just starting out, and after you’ve got some experience, if you want to try without, then go for it. All water needs to be allowed to stand for 24 hours before use. Do NOT use reverse osmosis filtered water; the ionic concentration in the frog will be greater than that of the water, leading to mineral loss and death. Tap water or bottled water that you let stand works fine. |
Lighting and UVB: | I use UV lights, but I’m not sure they’re really needed. It’s not a bad idea though. They do seem to do better with an actual photo-period; at least 10 hours of light daily. Incandescents can dry out and/or overheat your tank, so use either a very low watt incandescent or a fluorescent. |
Temperatures and Humidity: | I keep mine in the mid 80’s on the warm end. Temps are obtained with an under-the-tank pad that covers about 1/3 of the cage’s bottom.
Given the fossorial nature of these frogs, I don’t really monitor humidity; the substrate is fairly damp, and that seems to work. |
Heating and Equipment: | I recommend an UTH that covers about 1/3 of the tank, a few inches of gravel covered with screen, then with 5 inches of soil, some live moss to help trap in the humidity and moisture (and it looks cool), and any assorted plants. You’ll need a lid and large water bowl too. |
Caging Provided: | Mine are in 10 and 15 gallon tanks. Screen lids are needed, I use UV lights, and have growing moss and pothos in in all the tanks. UTH’s provide the heat. |
Diet: | N/A |
Description of Diet: | If it moves, these frogs will try to eat. They’re the only frogs I’ve kept that ever actually bit me--one of them latched on to my pinky finger and would NOT give up on eating it.
Crickets or roaches make a good staple. I occasionally feed waxworms, avoid mealworms (they’re just not that great a feeder) and feed a small mouse to ’em every two-three weeks. Feed a few times a week.
I’ve tried earthworms, but they mostly escaped and set up shop in the tank--it actually has worked pretty well, as they help create the soil and I *think* they may be partly responsible for how much cleaner the tank has been. Nowhere near as many substrate changes as I used to do! |
Supplements, Nutrition and Usage: | I lightly dust insects once a week or so. |
Maintenance: | Partial substrate changes are occasionally needed; every few weeks works well. Water changes need to occur frequently; every few days. Spot clean for feces as they occur. |
Some Words on this Species: | These are tanks. I’ve yet to have one die on me. They’re very sedentary, and so are not the best choice if you want an active, always-visible pet, but if you take them for what they are, they’re easy and undemanding. Frogs particularly are good candidates for planted vivaria, and I have found that these planted vivaria are really good looking and easier to maintain than the normal bare bones setup.
Don’t expect to see much of your frog; they seem to like to take up residence in one spot and not move much; my small male, for instance, has a place under a large pothos leave, with a hole that exposes just the horns--he only moves for food. |
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