Care Sheet for FrogsAverage Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 3.33 (1=lowest, 5=highest) Last Updated: 05/14/2006 |
Main Category: | Aquatic/Land |
Sub Category: | Frogs |
Care Sheet Submitted By: | Anonymous |
Years Experience: | 3 to 5 Years |
Species: | Leopard Frog |
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover: | Bullfrogs have similar requirement but require deeper water and a larger enviroment preferably an outdoor pond (leopard frogs also prefer outdoor ponds but tend to do better in indoor enclosures than Bullfrogs) Bullfrogs WILL eat adult leopard frogs never ever put them together as adults if they are similar size you can house them together but not for long. |
Sexing and Characteristics: | Female have a tendency to be larger but often it is only a suttle difference they can be tricky to sex until they reach 3 years in age at sexual maturity then if you have a boy and a girl the one that laid eggs is the female. |
Mostly Active During: | Night |
Substrate and Water Needs: | You need about 3 1/2 inches of water and they like filtered and clean water, these frogs are amazing swimmers and you can find them in really swiftly moving water so do not worry about getting a little current with the filter but do not get carried away but you do not have to worry about. Also substrate any gravel/aquarium sand river bed sand is neat because they will burrow in it on occasion but it can be difficult to clean. The substrate is just whatever you have time to clean which is a necessity to the well-being of any frog the best thing you can do if anything is keep the water clean. |
Lighting and UVB: | There is no UVB required but it will keep them healthier long term I use 2.0 because they are nocturnal the UV requirement doesn’t really matter. If you keep them inside I suggest it. |
Temperatures and Humidity: | You should have more water than land but you do not need to spray them or have a fogger they just go for a swim to get humid and they spend more time in the water than on land so you do not have to worry about it just give them plenty of water. |
Heating and Equipment: | No heating requirements necessary they will hibernate if it is too cold and will go in the water if it is too hot but you should keep the water Temperature ate 70-80 to keep them active and swimming around. But you could have room temperature everything and these frogs would appreciate it if kept out side it doesn’t matter they originate from the New England area as well as other environmentally punishing environments so they are EXTREMELY flexible temperature wise. But Ideally everything around 70. |
Caging Provided: | I would suggest for froglets you can keep as many as 5 in a twenty gallon tank but once they grow. Twenty gallons for two and add 5-10 gallons per frog. But if they are small you can keep 3 in twenty gallons. But If you want to breed them use a 55 gallon tank and put 8-12 in it depending on how many crickets you want to provide and create a bank and have the water as deep as 1 foot at the very end with a lot of vegetation and a few floating logs. And then have the bank of sand/gravel go all the way up so about 1/4 is all land (about 1 cubic foot) It is expensive but it is attractive and really cool.
But a basic setup is an aquarium with 3-4 inches of water and a turtle dock and multiple floating objects or islands. |
Diet: | Carnivorous |
Description of Diet: | These frogs will eat essentially any small LIVE (they can not see food unless it move you can simulate movement.) invertebrate/vertebrate that will fit in their mouth from crickets- extremely small pinkies for extremely big leopard frogs (I’ve seen it happen) You should feed them 4 crickets every other day I have a system Monday Meal 1 (1in) feeder fish in a small bowl per frog then 2 crickets per frog. Then Thursday Calcium with Vitamin D3 powdered crickets 4 a piece. Then Saturday Wax worms/ Silkworm 3 a piece.
Obviously every frog doesn’t get all the food the others do so I put 4 crickets in each day and have a few feeder guppy available in their water at all times they rarely get caught but they are there. You should always have some source of food available but if any frog looks obese cut back on all the frogs.
Also be careful if one frog is exceptionally large that she can not eat the other frogs if so you should separate the large one or the small ones which ever because they will eat them.
When you have young leopard frogs feed them appropriately sized crickets every day only 2-4 you can also feed wax worm or any soft worm not mealworms they are hard to digest and smell bad. Vitamitize twice a week.
When getting animals from out doors earthworms etc. make sure you know the species if it is venomous do research just get the critters you know and from an area that does not have pesticides. |
Supplements, Nutrition and Usage: | You should use calcium with vitamin d3 every 3rd meal but be careful not to over vitamitize your frogs it could kill them because they can get a calcium build up and that is probably not good so just one out of 3 meals |
Maintenance: | You should use a filter and remove all feces you see I rarely see them they probably go in the water. Also change the water frequently it is vital that it is not tap water and contains no harmful chemical you can buy water conditioner at almost any pet store and you can leave it out of the water for a few days so the chemicals evaporate. Chlorine is the worst it is almost worth taking water from a pond or something that you know frogs can survive in i.e. a frog pond.... |
Some Words on this Species: | These are very hardy animals if their basic needs are met they are also very interesting the are a good beginners species if the are understood that they need live food which a common thing people don’t know. You should limit handling unless it is necessary you can remove chemicals in their skin that will make them have trouble holding in moisture make sure if you have to hold them that you rinse your hand thoroughly and avoid soap. |
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