Care Sheet for FrogsAverage Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 3.50 (1=lowest, 5=highest) Last Updated: 05/24/2006 |
Main Category: | Aquatic/Land |
Sub Category: | Frogs |
Care Sheet Submitted By: | Dacia |
Years Experience: | 3 to 5 Years |
Species: | Pacman Frogs |
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover: | N/A |
Sexing and Characteristics: | N/A |
Mostly Active During: | Both |
Substrate and Water Needs: | Provide a deep substrate, such as commercial mulch, bark chips, large gravel, sphagnum moss, or sterile potting soil. Anything soft and mulchy will work. It is very important to keep the substrate clean because they will absorb urine through their skin. If you do not keep the substrate clean and change it often it will become toxic for your frog!!!
Provide a constant supply of clean, fresh, filtered, chlorine-free water in a shallow bowl that cannot be tipped over and large enough for the frog to soak in and drink from; replace water daily. They are not very good at swimming so the water dish should be no deeper than the frog itself.
|
Lighting and UVB: | Full spectrum lighting is only necessary for live plants, however it does give a much better look to the tank. A UVB light definitely is necessary since it helps your frog process calcium. I highly recommend using a self-ballasted mercury vapor bulb.
These bulbs will emit a much higher amount of UVB than any other UVB bulb and can fit into a clamp lamp. They are available in a spot and flood design. The spot lamps are generally the most preferred. They generally only come in 100W and 160W. So you will need to monitor the temperature in your frog’s cage. I recommend using an automatic timer set to a specific temperature. That way you will keep your frog from getting too hot. Zoo med manufactures these bulbs. Powersun UVB Bulb and they run around $50. The UVB output will start reducing right away though as the bulb is used and will generally last about 6 months.
Mercury Vapor bulbs will decay on the AVERAGE of 70%. Some will decay less and some will decay more. Simple terms, a 160wt SBMV FLOOD lamp that starts at 80uW/cm2@12” will decay (on the average) of 64uW/cm2 giving you 16uW/cm2@12”. Most of the decay happens very quickly in the first few days. It then levels off over the next several months. This happens to all MV bulbs regardless of the maker. Some of this decay may be a product of the composition of the glass changing from UVC exposure inside the glass.
|
Temperatures and Humidity: | Maintain a range of 75 degrees F. to 82 degrees F., use a heat source when needed. At night the temperature can be reduced. In the wild they experience contrasting wet and dry seasons and because of this, are not as sensitive to humidity levels as many other commonly kept amphibians. Some keepers choose to put adult frogs through a period of estivation where temperatures and humidity are reduced and feeding is stopped altogether. During this period, horned frogs are dormant and rely on stored fat deposits and a slowed metabolism in order to survive. Because of their ability to estivate for months at a time when exposed to abnormally dry and cool conditions, they are very hardy as far as temperature and humidity are concerned which is one of the reasons they make good captives. Any humidity really from 40 to 100 will work. Just keep it as high as you can and if it drops or changes that is just fine. Changing humidity will emulate their natural environment. |
Heating and Equipment: | Any low wattage light bulb can be used to heat their cage. Also heat pads can be attached to the side of their cage. Hot rocks, heating pads and other unsafe heating devices should be avoided. If you are using a MV bulb it should be sufficient for lighting and heating. |
Caging Provided: | Juveniles, 5 a-gallon tank minimum; full-grown male needs a 20+-gallon tank; keep only one horned frog to a tank – they do not necessarily get along and may even kill each other.
Cage Decor: Decor in the cage can consist of fake plants, pieces of curved cork bark, and driftwood. Hiding spots aren’t always needed if there is a deep substrate in which the frog can burrow. Live plants rarely last long in a cage with a horned frog because they generally get uprooted when the frog searches for a new place to sit and wait for food. They are large, powerful amphibians and can easily turn over a potted plant. My frog is constantly tearing up his cage.
|
Diet: | Carnivorous |
Description of Diet: | Provide a variety of live insects, such as crickets and mealworms; goldfish; live or frozen, thawed rodents, warmed to room temperature; Dust the insects daily with a pure calcium supplement and once or twice weekly with a vitamin/mineral supplement. Clean, fresh, filtered, chlorine- free water, changed daily.
Pacmans can eat 1/3 of their size in one meal. They close their eyes and press in from the outside to aid in swallowing large meals. Juvenile frogs should be offered crickets, earth worms, silk worms, and occasional wax worms. Avoid mealworms as these can cause impaction. A feeding schedule of two to six food items twice a week usually works well for growing juveniles. Very young frogs may do best if fed more often in smaller quantities. Adult horned frogs have very large mouths and can be fed a diet that consists of night crawlers, roaches, superworms, and silkworms. They can be fed as infrequently as once every week or every other week in large quantities, and during estivation can go without food for over four months if fed heavily beforehand. Vertebrates such as mice and feeder fish can be fed occasionally to both juveniles and adults but should not make up a large portion of the diet. Feeder goldfish should be avoided because they are too high in fat, and it’s best if mice are fed no more than once a month. Adult frogs should have their food coated in high quality reptile vitamin and mineral supplements once every two to four feedings. Juvenile’s should have their food supplemented more frequently, as often as every feeding.
If feeding your frog live rodents, do not leave them unattended. Live rodents can injure the frog, sometimes fatally.
|
Supplements, Nutrition and Usage: | Reptile vitamin supplements and Calcium |
Maintenance: | Clean your frog’s cage at least once a week. Always wash your hands before and after handling your frog. |
Some Words on this Species: | These guys are REALLY lazy and the highlight of your entertainment will be watching them eat! |
How Members Rated
This Care Sheet | Rate This Care Sheet
Please keep all comments constructive to Pacman Frogs husbandry methods and care. Any degrading, sarcastic, or disrespectful comments will be removed. |
Total Members Rating: 4
| 1 |  ( 0 ) |
| 2 |  ( 1 ) |
| 3 | ( 1 ) |
| 4 | ( 1 ) |
| 5 | ( 1 ) |
|
|
