Care Sheet for CricketsAverage Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 3.33 (1=lowest, 5=highest) Last Updated: 06/03/2006 |
Main Category: | Misc |
Sub Category: | Crickets |
Care Sheet Submitted By: | DJ11 |
Years Experience: | Under 1 Year |
Species: | Crickets |
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover: | just crickets |
Sexing and Characteristics: | Females have a tube behind them and males don’t. females use this tube to lay eggs. |
Mostly Active During: | Night |
Substrate and Water Needs: | Many people say different thing like oats, dirt, sand, etc. it think the best substrate is no substrate. for one thing, if you use dirt, the females might lay eggs in it and the males might dig them up and eat them. and if some hatch, they will get eaten. and people just make it more complicated when it comes to cleaning. for water, i recommend not using a water dish because the crickets drown them selves and sometimes on purpose. i just use vegetables with moisture in them. and once a day spray the egg cartons. don’t get the water all over the cage! this may cause bacteria. |
Lighting and UVB: | No lighting or uvb is needed. |
Temperatures and Humidity: | Temperatures should stick around 70-80 degrees Fahrenheit.. if it falls below a lot of the time, you need to by a heat lamp or heat pad. if the temps go to far below, they may not breed well or die. humidity isn’t much of a problem. just the humidity in your house is good enough. |
Heating and Equipment: | No heating is needed unless you live in a cold place or your house temp is below 70 degrees Fahrenheit. if it does, just use a heat lamp or heat pad. |
Caging Provided: | For my crickets, i use a food dish, egg laying box, and hiding places. my food dish is the top of a 12 pack egg carton cut in half so the crix can just walk inside the food dish. an egg laying box is a MUST if your going to breed crickets. just take a tupperware container, fill it about and inch and a half of potting soil and put screen over it. the screen i strongly recommend because if you don’t use it, the males may dig up a lot of the eggs and eat them. you wont have as many pinheads then.just stick the screen over and make sure no crickets can get through. don’t get to fine of a screen as the females may not be able to lay the eggs. next spray water all over the potting soil until it is moist NOT MUDDY. then each day spray it twice to keep it moist. hiding places can be simple as 12 or 24 pack egg crates. but the best hiding places are paper towel and toilet paper rolls. after about a week, take the egg laying box out, and let it sit in the cage your going to keep the pinheads(hatchling crickets)in. do not keep them in with the adults as they may eat the pinheads. if you have enough spare cages/storage containers, separate your feeders from the ones your going to raise into adults. |
Diet: | Herbivorous |
Description of Diet: | Crickets just eat plants. for crickets, mustards, carrots, romaine lettuce, and potatoes make a good diet. NOT ICE BURG LETTUCE! |
Supplements, Nutrition and Usage: | Just feed your feeder crickets, not the breeders, cricket gutload prior 24 hours before feeding. the vitamins will be passed on to your herp. OR use reptile vitamins and dust the crickets sparingly. |
Maintenance: | You just need to clean the cage when the cage is starting to get an oder. take of the items out the cage but leave the crickets in. scoot the crickets in and clean all dead crickets and feces out the cage. then do the same for the other side. dead crickets should be thrown out as soon as noticed. another good way to clean the cage is to just have another cage ready and put the crix in it and clean the old cage out. when the cage their in starts to have an oder, take them out, put them in the clean one, and clean the dirty one. |
Some Words on this Species: | Crickets do chirp so you need some where to keep them so other family members that have sensitive ears when sleeping don’t get bothered. also crickets are escape artists. so you need a good lid. |
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