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Leopard Gecko Care Sheets
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Care Sheet for Leopard Geckos

Average Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 2.57    (1=lowest, 5=highest)    Last Updated: 08/27/2006

Main Category:

Lizards

Sub Category:

Leopard Geckos

 Care Sheet Submitted By:

NEWTMAN456

Years Experience:

3 to 5 Years

Species:

Leopard Gecko

Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover:

Leopard Gecko

Sexing and Characteristics:

Sexing
Males have two bulges before the vent and a V-shaped row of pores. Females donít have this. *Note: Sexing can be successfully done at 8-12 months.
Characteristics:
Males tend to be more aggressive and territorial, however are very calm with human interaction if tamed. Females tend to be more docile from nature. There are exceptions to this as each gecko is different and these statements are from my own experience.

Temperature determines sex for the most part. After the first two weeks the gender is locked.
Hot Females
These are female leopard geckos who have hatched at male temperatures. They are extremely territorial in fact they have the same characteristics as males. Except theyíre not males. Incubation temp- about 90
Cold Males (I believe this is the correct term)
These are males who hatched at female temperatures. These males act like females. Incubation temp- 80
*Note: Hot females/ Cold males cannot breed.
**Note: I maybe a little off on the incubation temps due to me not being a breeder.

Mostly Active During:

Night

Substrate and Water Needs:

Substrate- Nothing loose, some of the safe substrates include non-glossy ceramic tile, commercial tile- non-adhesive, carpet - designed for reptiles, astro turf, non-adhesive shelf liner, paper towel or a bare cage.
Water: Change daily to cold water. At the very least change daily.

Lighting and UVB:

Lighting- Provide a 12-14 hour photoperiod.
UVB- Not necessary since they are nocturnal.

Temperatures and Humidity:

Day Time Temperatures:
Hot Side: 88-90 Degrees Fahrenheit [no higher than 90]
Cool Side: 78-82 Degrees Fahrenheit [no higher than 82]
Night Time Temperatures:
Drop 10 degrees, go no lower than 65 Degrees Fahrenheit
Humidity:
40-50% [No higher then 50% as prolonged exposure to high humidity will cause your gecko to catch a respiratory infection]

Heating and Equipment:

Heat Lamp- Provide appropriate wattage for your tank size.
Heat mat- Provide a heat mat that covers at least 2/3 of the tank, at most 1/2.
Guages:
Use at the very least analog thermometers and hydrometers. Place one on the hot side, one on the cool side and hydrometer where ever you want.

Caging Provided:

Provide at least a 10gallon tank per gecko. You need at least 3 hides. One for the hot side, one for the cool side and a humid hide for the middle or hot side. I have a 29 gallon tank for my three inch gecko, with plenty of hiding spaces, plants, objects to climb and a dish for food. If you are short on cash provide one hide and place it in the center of the tank until you can get the money to buy more hides or follow the humid hide instructions below except keep it dry.
Humid hide construction:
Take a Glad Ware [or similar container] and cut a hole about three inches in diameter. Sand the edges smooth. Fill the hide with paper towels or moss or vermiculite. Spray it daily and donít allow it to dry out. Vermiculite dust is known to carry asbestos and the dust off dried moss can be an irritant/infectant. Periodically dry out your moss- weekly. Replace all medium monthly, and when soiled.

Diet:

Carnivorous

Description of Diet:

Insectivorous
Feed a staple of gutloaded meal worms, crickets, lobster roaches, silk worms, super worms or phoenix worms. Treat foods included butterworms and wax worms- feed no more then two a week as it can cause fatty liver disease and kill your gecko. Always use a variety of food- for best results.
Food Size:
[Applies to crickets and lobster roaches] No bigger then the space between the geckoís eyes.
Feeding Amount:
Some people say as much as your gecko will eat in 20minutes. I say feed it as much as it will eat one day, a little less the next a little more the next and so on. Vary the food amounts to keep your gecko healthy. Think about it, all that protein in one feeding with not use for it. Just being stored has some serious effect on their organs. So I recommend you donít feed it until it no longer wants. Just like humans, if the gecko eats as much as it wants daily it will become overweight.

Supplements, Nutrition and Usage:

Pure Calcium:
Provide 3-5days a week.
Calcium W/D3:
Provide two times a week [any more and youíll make your gecko sick, but with out it your gecko will get sick].
Multivitamins:
Provide 2 times week [no more so you can make sure you donít over dose].

Maintenance:

Spot clean the tank daily, and completely clean out the tank monthly. If they have a stuck shed, place them in a container high enough so they canít escape and fill it with luke warm water up to their bellies. Then take a wet Q-tip and gently rub the shed off. If your gecko is constipated provide a drop of two of olive oil or a drop of mineral oil [no more then a drop of mineral oil]. Place these drops on the geckoís snout not on the nostrils or you can end up making your gecko sick - think about getting oil in your nose. Wash your hands before and after touching any reptile and/or itís cage items.

Some Words on this Species:

Very easy to take care of, friendly, and great for beginners. They are jumpy when young but if tamed they will sit in your hand or on your shoulder no problem.
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DISCLAIMER:
The information contain in these care sheets represents only the opinions and husbandry care of members and therefore is not guaranteed to be 100% accurate or reflects the advice or opinions of RepticZone.com. It is always advised to seek additional information or the advice of a qualified veterinarian or qualified reptile dealer. It is also advisable for you to a good amount of research before implementing any of the ideas and care described in these care sheets. We also recommend you ask many questions in their related forums before acting on any information.

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