Care Sheet for BoasAverage Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 4.91 (1=lowest, 5=highest) Last Updated: 10/06/2006 |
Main Category: | Snakes |
Sub Category: | Boas |
Care Sheet Submitted By: | Sonorone |
Years Experience: | 3 to 5 Years |
Species: | Rosy boa |
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover: | coastal, desert, mexican there is a baja recognized as some as another major species but debated. there are various varieties and hybrids created from those as well |
Sexing and Characteristics: | To sex your snake it should be "popped" or more accurately "probed". when popped a male will have anal spurs while females do not. I recommend having a professional do either if you are unsure on techniques. |
Mostly Active During: | Night |
Substrate and Water Needs: | A variety of normal snake substrates can be used (no cedar or pine. it can KILL your snake,). make sure to make it deep enough so the snake can burrow. astroturf or reptile carpet can be used along with paper towels or newspaper. however a hide box should be provided so your snake can feel secure.
water can be provided for a couple of days per every 2 weeks to a month. it should be on the cool side of the tank. they aren’t big drinkers and enjoy an occasional soak. the water dish cannot be tipped and should be shallow enough not to drown the snake. if any substrate gets wet it should be remove immediately. they need only medium humidity and are prone to blistering disease if over hydrated |
Lighting and UVB: | No special lighting is really needed however a basking light can be provided to supplement under tank heat on basking side if needed. it should be turned off at night or a "night style" red heat should be provided if absolutely necessary for heat. too much light can stress them. |
Temperatures and Humidity: | There should be 2 sides to the cage a cool side that is about 75 to low eighties and a basking side that anywhere between 87-92, 90 being optimum ABSOLUTELY NO HIGHER THAN 100!!!
humidity should stay relatively low around 50% even lower for deserts. a screened cage top with plenty of ventilation should be best. remember to not keep too much water and you should be fine. just a slight raise in humidity for sheds. also if snake dry sheds, in other words the skin tears. then soak for 20 minutes and remove any remaining skin. then try a slight humidity raise or more frequent water offerings. hydration balance is about the only "problem" I have had with this species. |
Heating and Equipment: | Under tank heating is preferred. light can be used or supplement the under the tank. a good hide box. damp(not wet!) sphagnum moss in the hide can help for hydration during sheds. some branches and/or vegetation for climbing and exercise |
Caging Provided: | A ten gallon is good for young even some small adults. twenty gallon should do good for most adults. they like feeling secure so nothing too big. |
Diet: | Carnivorous |
Description of Diet: | You have to watch prey size mostly because of their small heads.pinkies are good for babies. anywhere from 4-7 days between feedings. fuzzies are good for sub adults and juveniles once a week. then full grown mice are sub adult rats for adults every week to 10 days even 14 days for some that aren’t strong feeders. some rosys might not take frozen/thawed mice/pinkies witch means live is alright however F/T is preferred so there isn’t an aggressive feed response leading to the possibility of tank aggression when trying to be handled. |
Supplements, Nutrition and Usage: | Some like to inject vitamins into mice but not needed. |
Maintenance: | Other than what is mentioned just clean up an messes when they go to the bathroom. if you think your snake is ill like wheezing breathing or blisters take it to a reptile vet and get it cleared up. actually most reptile vet care is cheaper than a dog or cat so when in doubt get em checked out. |
Some Words on this Species: | The rosy is the smallest of all boas. they are very docile, in fact most herpers describe them as "friendly". with the many pattern and colors they are excellent beginners snake. It’s what I started with and really turned me into a snake addict. I will always own at least one if not more. snake is more likely to musk than strike when threatened. if you do wish to breed these snakes they do need to have a hibernation period in winter. I would recommend more in depth reading for proper hibernation care. |
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