Care Sheet for ChameleonsAverage Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 4.19 (1=lowest, 5=highest) Last Updated: 07/14/2006 |
Main Category: | Lizards |
Sub Category: | Chameleons |
Care Sheet Submitted By: | The Duke VII |
Years Experience: | 3 to 5 Years |
Species: | Veiled Chameleon |
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover: | Veiled Chameleons |
Sexing and Characteristics: | As hatchlings they are almost indistinguishable, other than probing. When in the juvenile stage, males are identified by a small protrusion of skin behind the rear feet {referred to as spurs}. The most notable difference in adults is the slope of the cone atop the head, males having a much steeper cone {70° or greater}, and females having a more gently sloping cone {45° or less}. |
Mostly Active During: | Day |
Substrate and Water Needs: | Despite what you may have read, DO NOT USE LOOSE SUBSTRATE. Chameleons have an adhesive tongue, using a loose substrate makes it possible for the animal to pick up bits of substrate while trying to capture food. If the Chameleon ingests loose substrates {such as bark or mulch} it can get lodged in its digestive tract an WILL KILL YOUR CHAMELEON. For a safe an attractive substrate, use repti-carpet. Veiled Chameleons do not usually drink out of water bowls {although I’ve heard of chameleons being trained to do so} the water usually needs to be in motion to be noticed. This is best accomplished by adding ice cubes to the top of a screen enclosure. As the ice melts, the drips should draw the animals attention {given it has something to slow its fall on the way down, like a fake plant that will allow it to drip off} . |
Lighting and UVB: | Chameleons {like most reptiles} need UV light to metabolize vitamin D. They also require a heat light atop the cage for basking. |
Temperatures and Humidity: | I personally keep a basking area around 100° but no more than 105°. The ambient temperature during the day in my enclosures stay between 82° and 90°, while at night falling to the mid 70’s. Regular misting is required to keep the cage at about 50% humidity. |
Heating and Equipment: | Heat lamps only. Since Veileds are an arboreal animal an under tank heater is not as effective, an under tank heater is best used as an aid to the heat lamp. Heat rocks should not be used under any circumstances. |
Caging Provided: | Chameleons benefit from having at least two sides of their enclosure screen. Mine is screen on all sides, which makes keeping humidity a challenge but is well worth it for the overall health of the chameleon. Veileds also prefer vertical space as opposed to horizontal space, use a tall enclosure with plenty of vines to climb on. |
Diet: | Carnivorous |
Description of Diet: | Eats mostly crickets {properly gut-loaded}, mealworms, flies, etc. Veileds will also accept pothos plants {free of pesticides and not too much}. |
Supplements, Nutrition and Usage: | Calcium dusting of crickets is a must, as a lack of which will result in metabolic bone disorder {weak bones and bowing of the limbs} |
Maintenance: | A high maintenance animal. Veileds can eat SEVERAL crickets a week. Having such a large appetite, it does not take long for a large amount of feces to accumulate in the enclosure, requires regular cleaning. |
Some Words on this Species: | Veileds are a challenging and rewarding animal. Very few reptiles have such a unique personality. That being said, they have notoriously bad tempers and will gape, hiss, and bite. At a very young age they can be handled very easily. As a late juvenile and sub adult they are miniature monsters, to avoid being harmed by a bite wear a pair of leather gloves {not used on anything else}, once the chameleon is removed from the enclosure it will usually calm down. Once the animal reaches sexual maturity it calms down to be a really nice animal, which only gets upset during the process of removing it from its cage. NOTE: If you acquire a female, they will lay eggs once sexually mature, REGARDLESS IF THEY ARE FERTILIZED OR NOT. This becomes obvious when the animal tries to dig up the cage. A bowl of loose digging material {such as sand}should then be placed in with the female. If this is not done, she may become egg-bound and die. Always cage Veileds separately. |
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