Care Sheet for Horned LizardsAverage Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 5.00 (1=lowest, 5=highest) Last Updated: 08/03/2006 |
Main Category: | Lizards |
Sub Category: | Horned Lizards |
Care Sheet Submitted By: | Vivian |
Years Experience: | 15 to 20 Years |
Species: | Desert horned Lizard aka Horny Toad |
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover: | This care sheet is only fro the Desert Horned Lizard species. (Platyrhinos) The others (Coastal, Mountain, Texas etc) each have their own requirements, and should be researched seperately. |
Care Sheet Information: |
Desert Horned Toad (aka Horny Toad) Basic Care
These instructions deal exclusively with the species Phrynosoma Platyrhinos, and this care
guide is only for this species. The percentage of ants needed, temps, and breeding vary
greatly between the species.
These are very gentle creatures. They never bite! I did have one very pregnant female hiss and swish her tail at me when I would check to see if she had laid her eggs yet. But once she gets the load off, she turns from her crabby ways.
1) Remember these are desert dwellers. They need a daytime temp of 100-105 degrees. Night time temps need to drop, but not below 70. If they get too cool they become lethargic, bury up in the sand and won’t eat. This is the beginning stage of hibernation.
2) They need the day/night cycle. Turn off the lights at night, and let the substrate heater keep them warm. If they get too cool they will bury in the sand and get closer to the heat source.
3) These guys must have both UVB and UVA or "full spectrum" light. If not, their spine and
legs will become deformed. They will also become lethargic. If you notice this behavior in
your lizards, change the bulb. Sometimes the bulb rays will weaken before it actually goes
out.
4) 90% of this lizards diet should be Red Harvester Ants. You can order them online. They eat a lot of them! Mine eat about 50 - 100 per day each! I order them by the thousand and keep them in the fridge. The ants go into hibernation and are easy to keep up to a month. They roll up into little balls until they get warm, then they are up running around again in a few minutes amazing! I have feed the last of a shipment 4 weeks after delivery and most of them still be alive!
5) The lizards will also eat most any insect smaller than their head but they still must
have the ants. If they do not get sufficient quantities they will die! The red harvester ant population has deteriorated with the increased poisoning of the fire ants. I don’t think we’ve done any great harm to the fire ants, but the pesticides have just about wiped out the harvester ants in my area. Our Horny Toads are gone because their food
source is gone. The harvester ants formic acid and co-enzymes just can’t be easily
duplicated.
6)
In the desert they get some of their needed fluid from the insects they eat. They also drink from the rivulets formed when rain trickles down their face. I mist mine to imitate a rain shower every other day. You can see them swallowing it as it trickles down their nose.
7) PLEASE: If you find that the care of your horned lizard is too much for you, don’t ’return it to the wild’ - unless you live in a desert area with a prolific harvester ant population it is a death sentence for the lizard!
8) Supply list:
a) Large aquarium (at least 30 gal. Per pair)
These are ground dwellers, more floor space is
better than height.They will climb up on a rock to
bask, but thats about it for climbing.
b) Substrate heater
c) UVA/UVB light source
(produces minimal heat)
d) Light for heat/basking
e)Thermometer
(preferably 2, one for each end of the tank)
f) Sand
(not too fine or dusty play sand for sandboxes
works well)
g) Red Harvester Ants
h) Hideouts
i) Other insects (crickets, grasshoppers, moths, etc.)
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