Care Sheet for FrogsAverage Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 4.00 (1=lowest, 5=highest) Last Updated: 10/06/2006 |
Main Category: | Aquatic/Land |
Sub Category: | Frogs |
Care Sheet Submitted By: | Herp Boy Wonder |
Years Experience: | 10 to 15 Years |
Species: | Horned Frog |
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover: | Any horned frog in the ceratophrys genus. |
Sexing and Characteristics: | N/A |
Mostly Active During: | Night |
Substrate and Water Needs: | Juveniles do not need substrate as much as s because the hunt more and do not settle in one spot as s do. No substrate also prevents impaction. As they get older they should be provided with a few inches of eco-earth, moss, top soil(with no fertilizer), or a mixture of all of these. A water bowl is not needed as long as the substrate remains wet, but certain frogs will utilize the water bowl more often than others, experiment and see if your frog uses the water bowl, if your frog does not use it, take it out as it can take up precious burrowing space. |
Lighting and UVB: | Lighting is not needed nor is UVB lighting, you may put a fluorescent light on the frog during the day so you can observe it better. The lighting is mainly for you, not the frog. You should still give the frog a 12 hour day-night schedule. |
Temperatures and Humidity: | The temperature can be room temperature for most species year round. If the frogs are being kept in a room with other herps year-round the heat given off by the other enclosures will be enough to sustain the frog through the winter. If the temperature drops below 65 degrees regularly a tropical heat pad or heat lamp may be used to keep the temperature 70-75 degrees, the optimum temperature for most of these frogs. The temperature should remain in the upper area of this range, or even to 80 degrees for the Amazon horned frog(c. cornuta) or any hybrid that is part c. cornuta. The humidity can be maintained by keeping the substrate wet, make sure you do not let your frog dry out. |
Heating and Equipment: | Explained in Temperatures and Humidity |
Caging Provided: | Any horned frog up to 3.5" can be kept in a 2 1/2 gallon tank, though a larger tank can be provided. Any horned frog up to 4.5" can be kept in a 5 gallon tank, though more space can be provided. 10 gallons is the maximum size tank for anything above this size. |
Diet: | Carnivorous |
Description of Diet: | These frogs will eat almost anything that moves, a diet of mealworms/superworms, crickets, earthworms, minnows, and mice is sufficient. A lot of people despise mice as a food source but it is perfectly okay, as mice are more nutritious than most other prey items. Try not to give over 60% mice for younger specimens, but larger specimens can take proportionally larger amounts of mice. Try to give a varied diet of the prey items listed above. |
Supplements, Nutrition and Usage: | Crickets and other food sources can be dusted, but gutloading is the most effective way to keep your pet healthy. Just feed the prey item things like veggies, seeds, egg shells, and other things 24 hours before feeding them to your frog. Calcium supplementation is not needed for frogs taking mice, as the bones already contain enough calcium for the frog. |
Maintenance: | These frogs require very little maintenance, just change the substrate whenever it is badly soiled. With paper towels this means every few days, with soil this could be much longer. The main thing is to keep the substrate moist. |
Some Words on this Species: | Horned frogs can be very rewarding pets, as long as their requirements are met. Some people think that they are boring but I find it very entertaining to watch them flick out their tongues to catch their prey. |
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