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Blue Tongue Skink (Irian Jaya) Care Sheets
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Care Sheet for Skinks

Average Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 4.45    (1=lowest, 5=highest)    Last Updated: 09/05/2006

Main Category:

Lizards

Sub Category:

Skinks

 Care Sheet Submitted By:

SavannahBlue

Years Experience:

3 to 5 Years

Species:

Blue Tongue Skink (Irian Jaya)

Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover:

N/A

Sexing and Characteristics:

See Vet. or if you witness Ejection of sperm plug and/or Hemipenes (male sex organ) you have a Male. but its always best to see a vet

Mostly Active During:

Day

Substrate and Water Needs:

I prefer cypress mulch, many people like to use Aspen shavings. NEVER use sand, walnut shells, pine/cedar products. Do not use newspaper, its bad for the skinks feet.

WATER: water bowl big enough to submerge in. CHANGE WATER DAILY!

Lighting and UVB:

UVb bulb is a must. without your skink cannot sync with the D3. this is to build up calcium

Temperatures and Humidity:

Cool side-low 70ís to low 80ís

Basking-95-100 (remember:this is a surface temperature) the skink must have a suitable basking rock at this temp using a heat lamp, nothing else(no hot rocks).

usually no heating equipment is required for night. temps at night - no lower than 60

use a 12 hour cycle example: 9:00am heat lamp on, 9:00pm heat lamp off.

Humidity-25%-40%. Mist occasional and in shed.

Heating and Equipment:

Heat lamps (an incandescent bulb inside a light hood). NO HOT ROCKS!

Caging Provided:

10-20gal for hatchlings

20gal for under a year.

30gal breeder 1 year and up.

in my opinion it is best to use a 30gal breeder for the whole time. Maybe something smaller if the skink is under 3 months of age

personally- i use homemade 3.5ftx2ftx1.5ft. this has worked great for me

a hide on the hot and the cool end is a MUST!!! i have a hide cave that is also a basking rock, a hide cave on the cool side and 2 half logs in between. this doesnít only create a happy non stressed skink but also allows your lizard to exercise(crawl up and over things). skinks are VERY curious animals, always exploring and always tasting the air.

Diet:

Omnivorous

Description of Diet:

The 50/40/10 system is the #1 choice.

50% meat: (in order best to worst) Silkworm, Chicken, lean Turkey, canned cat food or monitor food,Butter worm, snail, waxworm, superworm, mealworm/cricket, hard egg, whole egg, pinky mouse.

40% veggies/greens: (the best choices and in order best worst)
VEGGIES: Spaghetti Squash, Butternut Winter Squash, Acorn Squash, Hubbard Squash, Summer Squash, Scallop Squash.
GREENS: Collard Greens, Turnip Greens, Mustard Greens, Dandelion Greens, Endive, Escarole

10% fruit: (best choices) Cactus, Papaya, Fig, Raspberries, Mango. there’s many more

Mix all this up into a little salad. feed daily for young skinks and every other day when they become a bit older.

Keep a GRAND variety of different meat, veggie/greens, and fruit in the diet. don’t feed the same thing every day. use summer squash with collard greens and chicken one day. use Kale with Butternut squash and lean turkey another.

Supplements, Nutrition and Usage:

"If your meals are well rounded and healthy, you donít necessarily need any supplements. It is understandable though, that it may be difficult to have the PERFECT diet 365 days a year. You may run out of a certain food or certain fruits or vegetables may go bad...(or some fruits may even go out of season) thatís why it doesnít hurt to have some supplements handy. Usually mix in a dash or two of Vitamin/Anti-oxidant powder, and a D3/Calcium powder a couple times a week. Both can be purchased at your pet shop, and will cost around five to ten bucks each. Again though, if you have a healthy balanced diet itís not really necessary. Blueberries for example are a natural anti-oxidant, and egg/snail shells, figs, and collard greens are calcium enriched. Do not overdose on the fruit. Itís an easy thing to do. Fruit contains more phosphorus than other foods, and if your skink began suffering from a phosphorus/calcium imbalance, it can lead to metabolic bone disease. Here is an excellent quote written by Edward Martinez that sums up my entire position on supplements: "Excessive amounts of any vitamin or mineral can lead to health problems, so Iíd rather not chance it by adding artificial supplements that may be totally unnecessary. Focusing on a good diet is a much more effective way to insure proper nutrition for your BTS." Just think about this: Wouldnít one only supplement if their diet was inadequate?"

taken straight from http://www.bluetongueskinks.net/care.htm

i use T-rex Dragon Dust when i dust the food

Maintenance:

REPLACE WATER DAILY! spot clean cage daily!

change substrate every 6 months or so. clean water bowl and other items once every 1-2 months in a 2% bleach solution depending on the amount of filth. water bowl should be kept very clean on a daily basis

Some Words on this Species:

I have/have had a few reptiles; Savannah Monitor, Frilled Dragon, Uromastyx, Ball Python, Corn snake, and some others, and of course the Blue Tongue Skink. the BTS is still my favorite pet out of all the ones Iíve had, they re docile, friendly, intelligent, low maintenance, and are a perfect size. the BTS is the BEST beginners choice, if you cant afford it then go for a Beardie they also make great beginning pets. For snakes I’d say Ball python and Corn snake are excellent choices. as a beginner.... stay away from Monitors(and any other large lizard), uromastyx(HOT temps, higher maintenance), the frilled dragon seemed a lil too fragile for me.

for a lizard.... BTS or Bearded Dragon is THE best choice because they are most likely captive bred. and trust me you most likely don’t wanna be stuck with a wild caught lizard or snake....

Any questions contact me at the Skink Forum on Kingsnake ask to speak to SavannahBlue

THANK YOU
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DISCLAIMER:
The information contain in these care sheets represents only the opinions and husbandry care of members and therefore is not guaranteed to be 100% accurate or reflects the advice or opinions of RepticZone.com. It is always advised to seek additional information or the advice of a qualified veterinarian or qualified reptile dealer. It is also advisable for you to a good amount of research before implementing any of the ideas and care described in these care sheets. We also recommend you ask many questions in their related forums before acting on any information.

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