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Jungle Carpet Python Care Sheets
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Care Sheet for Pythons

Average Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 4.62    (1=lowest, 5=highest)    Last Updated: 09/08/2006

Main Category:

Snakes

Sub Category:

Pythons

 Care Sheet Submitted By:

Jhsss

Years Experience:

1 to 2 Years

Species:

Jungle Carpet Python

Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover:

Most Carpet Pythons

Sexing and Characteristics:

Carpet pythons generally reach sexual maturity at 2.5 to 3 years of age and can produce a clutch of eggs in a captive environment. Winter cooling is not absolutely necessary to induce breeding if the animals are kept in the low 80OS throughout the year. Instead, it seems it is more important to have multiple males to induce combat behavior which in turn stimulates copulation. Typically the eggs take between 49-72 days to incubate with a temperature between 90oF and 92oF.

Mostly Active During:

Night

Substrate and Water Needs:

Fresh water should be offered daily. A variety of substrates can be used. Simple substrates such as newspaper or indoor/outdoor carpeting can be used and are easy to maintain. For naturalistic enclosures substrates such as crushed coconut shell or soil can be used. Not only does this provide a aesthetic enclosure it will also maintain humidity levels better that newspaper or carpeting. Care should be used if using wood shavings to avoid accidental ingestion of the shavings while feeding.

Lighting and UVB:

As with most snakes, it has not been proven that any UV light needs to be provided for jungle carpet pythons. A 10 to 12 hour photo period should be provided and can be achieved with timers. Light can be provided with a standard fluorescent bulb and fixture. Heat can be provided with basking bulbs, ceramic emitters, or thermal panels. Heat rocks should be avoided as they can often cause burns. Care should also be taken to not place heating elements in the enclosure where the snake can possibly come in contact with the bulb and suffer burns.

Temperatures and Humidity:

A 75° - 85° F (27o to 32 o) daytime temperature gradient should be offered. Night time temperatures should be 5° F - 10° F cooler.

Heating and Equipment:

Basking Heat: This is provided by an overhead heat source, usually a ceramic heater, basking lamp or an infrared lamp All of these heat sources are available through U.R.S. These should be placed so as to provide a basking hot spot and to provide general heat throughout the vivarium. White lights must not be used at night. Heaters can be left unshielded in lizard enclosures, but shields of fine mesh are essential in snake vivaria to prevent them from burns.

Ground Heat: In shallow vivaria, ground heat is suitable although radiant heat from the basking heater can warm the substrate sufficiently, especially if a piece of slate is placed below the heater. In taller vivaria or in much cooler climate locations, additional heating will be required at floor level. Low level heating can be provided by the use of heat cords, heat pads, heated hides and in some cases, hot rocks. All of these are available through U.R.S. It should be noted that hot rocks or rock heaters are not heat emitters but provide a warm surface for belly heat only like an electric blanket and do not warm the vivarium. In the case of some venomous snakes, such as adders, ground heat only can be adequate.

Temperature Control: Because temperatures vary greatly in most homes and depending on your enclosure, it is wise to use a thermostat to properly control temperatures and ensure the safety of the animals. Overheating can be even more dangerous than under heating.

Ultraviolet Light. This can be provided using a Reptistar fluoro tube for all your reptiles or the ReptiSun 5.0 for lizards and turtles and ReptiSun 2.0 for snakes, pythons, amphibians and arachnids. Reptistar and ReptiSun tubes are made especially for reptiles. They simulate sunlight by providing the beneficial UVA and UVB wavelengths which increase appetite, activity and reproductive behavior in captive reptiles and also prevents diseases and infections occurring. DO NOT use the extremely strong "Blacklight Blue" (BLB) tube or poster globes. These can harm your animals eyes. Eight watt mini lights are definitely inadequate. The UV tubes should be fitted in a batten, and turned on for daylight hours only. UV tubes have a limited life and must be renewed every six to twelve months even though they still show visible light. As with heating, shielding of the light is not necessary for lizards but is a must for snakes and pythons. Shields should be made of smooth mesh. Plastic diffusers will not allow adequate UV rays to reach the reptile.

No animals should be heated without a thermometer in the enclosure to monitor the performance of the heater. One should be fixed alongside the thermostat, while a second thermometer can be moved around the vivarium to check the thermal gradient.

Caging Provided:

The ideal setup for a Jungle Carpet Python is a large, arboreal cage. Height is more important than width, although the bigger is better all the way around. Branches should be sturdy and well-secured to protect
this active snake from injury while moving around. A large water bowl should be available at all times. If you are using a normal reptile cage, it should be at least half the length of the snake. A forty gallon breeder would be a good size for any adult Jungle Carpet Python. It is very important to give the a branch to perch on because they are arboreal they like to sleep up high.

Diet:

Carnivorous

Description of Diet:

Jungle Carpet Pythons readily eat pre-killed rodents. Juveniles should be fed consistently, but not overfed; 2-3 appropriately sized mice a week is good. Adults should be feed 1-2 appropriately sized rats once a week
to every ten days. Care should be taken when feeding,as these snakes have large some what fang-like teeth. Match the prey size to the girth of the body, not the size of the head. Prey should be 100% to 125% as large as the widest part of the snake. I suggest switching from mice to rats at about 3’. Jungle Carpet Pythons do not like the taste of rats in general. What we have found very affective in getting them to switch is rubbing a mouse on the nose and head of the rat. After one feeding this way, they will usually start feeding on rats.

Supplements, Nutrition and Usage:

Don’t use them

Maintenance:

Fresh water should be offered daily. If using newsprint or carpeting then clean as needed. Other substrates should be spot cleaned as needed. Periodically, the enclosure should be completely cleaned and disinfected. A 5% bleach solution makes an excellent disinfectant. Be sure to rinse the enclosure thoroughly after disinfecting. As always, be sure to wash your hands thoroughly after handling your python or any cage accessories.

Some Words on this Species:

This is one of the most beautiful snakes in the world and is very low maintenance if you maintain if the proper humidity and temperature levels. If properly taken care of you should have a healthy pet with a life expectancy of about 20 years or longer. Remember that in many places it is illegally to take wildlife out of the wild without the proper permits from local, state, or federal authorities. Please do not release any captive reptiles or amphibians into the wild as this will disrupt the natural order of our environment.
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DISCLAIMER:
The information contain in these care sheets represents only the opinions and husbandry care of members and therefore is not guaranteed to be 100% accurate or reflects the advice or opinions of RepticZone.com. It is always advised to seek additional information or the advice of a qualified veterinarian or qualified reptile dealer. It is also advisable for you to a good amount of research before implementing any of the ideas and care described in these care sheets. We also recommend you ask many questions in their related forums before acting on any information.

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