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Brazilian Rainbow Boa Care Sheets
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Care Sheet for Rainbow Boas

Average Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 4.00    (1=lowest, 5=highest)    Last Updated: 11/27/2006

Main Category:

Snakes

Sub Category:

Rainbow Boas

 Care Sheet Submitted By:

Quique627

Years Experience:

10 to 15 Years

Species:

Brazilian Rainbow Boa

Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover:

N/A

Sexing and Characteristics:

The only way to sex these guys is buy getting them probed by a vet or someone with experience. Never attempt to do so if you are inexperienced as you can ruin and/or severely injure your snake. As adults males average about 5 to 6 feet and females average about 6 to 7 feet.

Mostly Active During:

Night

Substrate and Water Needs:

I use paper towels though Cypress Mulch is best to hold humidity. If using paper towels I advise to mist the cage 2-3 times a day. These guys also like to rest in water bowls so make sure that the size of the water bowl is big enough for the snake to submerge its body underwater. Change the water daily. It also benefits the humidity in the cage your are maintaining.

Lighting and UVB:

None is really needed though it does not hurt to use one. A 40 watt day bulb will work.

Temperatures and Humidity:

Temperatures should be around 78-81 during the day and mid 70’s at night time. Humidity should be a minimum of 75%. Make sure to never let temps exceed 85 as these temps are fatal to Brazilian Rainbow Boas.

Heating and Equipment:

I use an infared light (red bulbs) and leave it on at night. I use it at night time because my room is averages about 79 degrees during the day though it drops at night. However your room may not have temp levels like mine so you should use it on a 24 hour cycle. Also make sure you have a thermometer and hydrometer that actually works. Also a thermostat could be used to keep the temps constant.

Caging Provided:

For a baby that is 16-24 I use a 66 quart (16.5 gallons) plastic container. This holds in humidity great and very inexpensive. Though if you are concerned about looks regarding to cages I suggest getting a Vision cage or something of that style. Aquariums can be used though the only problem with them is that they have a problem holding humidity. If you want to use it then you have to make a custom lid out of Plexiglas or something of that sort. When the boa gets to be about 40 inches move it to a about a 30 gallon container. When it reaches adult size it should be moved to a container or whatever you use that is equivalent to a 40 gallon breeder tank. As said before a water bowl that your snake can submerge its body in. Also add a hide or two. You can add moss to your liking to any of the hides to make a humid hide for your snake.

Diet:

Carnivorous

Description of Diet:

As babies(16-24 inches) these guys have quite the appetite. I feed mine 3-5 pinkies every 4 days but the reason is because I do not have access to fuzzies. Unless you have access to a surplus amount of pinkies like me then use 1 fuzzy every 4 days. Also be very cautious to obesity as these snakes are very prone to it. At yearlings (25-47 inches) some are able to handle small to medium adult mice but I prefer feeding small adult. Feed either 1 or 2 small adult mice every 7 to 10 days. When they reach or begin to reach their adult size (48+ inches) feed one medium to large mouse every 10 to 14 days. Try to avoid feeding chicks or any small birds as they make the stool very messy. Do not attempt to hold the snake for 2 days. You don’t want to risk your snake regurgitating it’s meal. It’s very unhealthy for your snake. Also these guys are very cranky and defensive because they feel vulnerable at this state.

Supplements, Nutrition and Usage:

They do not need any supplements as they get all the calcium they need from the bones of the mice. In order for them to receive it though they need to get heat to break it down.

Maintenance:

These are middle maintenance snakes. They require specific humidity needs and temps but they are really not that hard at all for one to achieve. Also stool should be cleaned as soon as possible. You do not want your snake or possibly even you getting hookworms or any other nasty parasites. The water bowl should be changed daily as these guys love to soak. The tank should be misted at least 2 to 3 times a day. Also clean the whole cage every 3 weeks.

Some Words on this Species:

These guys are great snakes. They are not as hard to take care of as people say. As long as you have the time, patience, and willingness to keep your snake, then you will be successful. Money is a minor factor too but not really that severe. Make sure you do daily handling to tame them down. They are a bit nippy though as babies but then again a lot of baby snakes are because you look like a big predator trying to make a meal out of them. Though with daily handling they will get adjusted to your presence. Never try to grab them but rather scoop them. Also when doing this make sure you do it in the upper middle part of the body. You will have more control of the snake and a lower risk of the snake trying to nip you.
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DISCLAIMER:
The information contain in these care sheets represents only the opinions and husbandry care of members and therefore is not guaranteed to be 100% accurate or reflects the advice or opinions of RepticZone.com. It is always advised to seek additional information or the advice of a qualified veterinarian or qualified reptile dealer. It is also advisable for you to a good amount of research before implementing any of the ideas and care described in these care sheets. We also recommend you ask many questions in their related forums before acting on any information.

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