Care Sheet for Geckos: TokayAverage Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 3.80 (1=lowest, 5=highest) Last Updated: 01/19/2007 |
Main Category: | Lizards |
Sub Category: | Geckos: Tokay |
Care Sheet Submitted By: | EMWhite |
Years Experience: | 5 to 10 Years |
Species: | Tokay gecko (Gecko gecko) |
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover: | None. |
Sexing and Characteristics: | Characteristics: The Tokay gecko is one of the most common geckos available in the pet trade today. Its temperament makes this somewhat surprising. They are extremely aggressive, and, in most case, will not tolerate any handling. They will, however, tolerate one or more cage mates, given that there is not more than one male per enclosure. There have been instances where females introduced into existing pairs were alienated by the others and was not allowed to feed. I have never experienced this, but I have heard of it occurring.
Sexing: Males of this species will have enlarged bulges at the base of their tails. Females lack these. When a male and female are compared, the difference is obvious. Males will also bark, usually at night. |
Mostly Active During: | Night |
Substrate and Water Needs: | Substrate: Any material that will hold humidity without harboring standing water. These could be: Bed-a-Beast (a product made of ground coconut husks, it is readily available in compressed, dehydrated bricks), cypress mulch, repti bark (though with this there is a risk of accidental ingestion, which could lead to impaction), or, my favorite, a mixture of 4 parts coconut fiber (bed-a-beast) mixed with 2 parts rinsed orchid bark and 1 part play sand. This creates a very natural, humidity supporting, substrate.
Water: I have only ever seen these geckos drink from "dew" droplets, but I have heard that they will drink from moving water, (ie water with a bubbler stone and air pump, or a waterfall). The "dew" can be achieved by spraying the cage 2-3 times daily. This is also necessary for their humidity requirement. |
Lighting and UVB: | No special lighting is required as these are nocturnal animals who hide in amongst foliage during the day. Full spectrum lighting (UVB lights), will be wasted on them, unless there are live plants in the enclosure. |
Temperatures and Humidity: | Though no special lighting is required, a heat lamp is necessary. A 60 watt basking lamp can be used to achieve a temp of 80-85 degrees F. This is the ideal temperature range for these geckos, but temperatures as high as 90 degrees F will be tolerated given that it the animal has a way to escape the heat and retreat into a cooler part of the cage.
*Note: I used a Zoomed red basking light (60 watt), 24 hours a day for mine, this kept the temperatures suitable even during the night. They cannot see the color red, so these lights can be left on all the time.
Humidity: As stated, these geckos have a need for high humidity. They should be misted 1-2 times daily. Use a humidity gauge to show the percent humidity. you want to aim for a %humidity of about 60-65%, though slightly higher is fine. It sometimes helps to cover a portion of the screen top of a glass cage with a sheet of plexiglass to trap some of the moisture. In a wooden tank, this is not needed. |
Heating and Equipment: | A simple, ceramic topped, dome light available at any pet store that stocks reptiles or reptile goods will suffice. As stated, a 50-60 watt light is ideal and will create the proper temperature gradient inside the cage. This should be placed on the top of the cage, either on top of the screen, (in screen topped cages), or inside a wire cage if the bulb is accessible to the geckos. (This could be inside a wooden cage where the fixture is inside the enclosure itself.) |
Caging Provided: | Either a 20 long tank (30"L) or a 20 high (24"H) can be used. If you can provide a bigger cage, go for it. They can use all the space you can provide and likely will. |
Diet: | Carnivorous |
Description of Diet: | These are strictly carnivorous animals. The will consume anything that is smaller than them, or at least try to. I fed dusted crickets, mealworms, pinky mice, and wax worms. I have heard of earthworms being accepted, but I had never tried this, so I cannot say for sure. |
Supplements, Nutrition and Usage: | As with any captive herp, a quality vitamin and calcium supplement should be used. For juveniles and babies, dust every feeding, for adults, dusting every second or third is acceptable. |
Maintenance: | Sadly, most of these geckos are wild caught. Meaning that they will likely be harboring some type of internal parasite load. Upon purchase, a fresh fecal sample should be taken to a herp vet for examination. Parasite treatment is usually very easy, and inexpensive, so it is an easy malady to remedy. |
Some Words on this Species: | These extremely aggressive geckos are truly one of the most unique and beautiful lizards available today. With their bluish gray undertone topped with reddish orange dots, they are a show stopper. They are a conversation piece even to non-herp lovers, and a bad-tempered jewel of the herpetological world. |
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