Care Sheet for Geckos: LeopardAverage Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 3.67 (1=lowest, 5=highest) Last Updated: 05/30/2007 |
Main Category: | Lizards |
Sub Category: | Geckos: Leopard |
Care Sheet Submitted By: | GeckoGuy777 |
Years Experience: | 3 to 5 Years |
Species: | Leopard Gecko (Eublepharis Macularius) |
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover: | None |
Sexing and Characteristics: | Males: They tend to be thicker set compared to females. The easiest way to tell the sex is look underneath the gecko, just above the tail. In males, there should be two pronounced bulges, and just above them, a line of dark pores resembling a "V".
Females: They are simple. If they don’t fit the description above, you have a female! |
Mostly Active During: | Night |
Substrate and Water Needs: | Water: Water should be changed daily. I use reptile water jugs by fluker’s so I don’t have to change the water as often. If you don’t use these, which most do not, simply have a shallow bowl of water in the tank.
THE BIG SUBSTRATE DEBATE!
Any solid surface such as paper towels, newspaper, reptile-carpet, or tile. Sand is what causes the problems, and "the big substrate debate" as I call it. I say don’t use it, sure it is visually appealing, I admit it, but it is not healthy for your pet. Geckos are rather clumsy hunters. Combine a mouth-full of sand every time they miss while hunting, with licking around in their surroundings equals trouble. Sand causes gut impaction, which is where the sand literally clogs the digestive track. The gecko can no longer poop or absorb nutrients from their meals. Calci-sand or any other proclaimed "digestible sand" is actually the worst of all sand. I just overall ignore particulate substrate. Sure some have used loose substrate with success, but if you ask me, it is more like a time bomb. When it catches up to them, they will be sorry they kept their substrate. Should you really risk your pet’s life just so your tank will look good? Doesn’t make much sense. |
Lighting and UVB: | UVB is unnecessary. Keep a light on for about 12 hours every day. I use a heat lamp just to keep them warm, and it seems to give them brighter color. |
Temperatures and Humidity: | Temperature Gradient: Around 92 degrees F. for the hot side and about 81 degrees F. on the cool side. The proper gradient is vital since they cannot produce their own heat, or cool themselves off. They rely on the temperature around them. They also need heat to process and digest food.
Humidity: 35% or so is good humidity. |
Heating and Equipment: | UTH (under tank heaters) are a great heat source as long as you can control their setting. Do not use heat rocks. I have used them before and never had a gecko burned, but I haven’t used them in over a year. It is not worth the risk. As mentioned above, I use heat lamps, although you do not need to. |
Caging Provided: | A 10 gallon is best for a single juvenile or two babies. A 20 gallon is best for a single adult, although a 10 gallon will work as well. I add another 10 gallons for each additional gecko. One male per enclosure, as they will fight, usually to the death. You will need 3 hides per gecko. One on the hot side, one on the cool side, and one humid hide for shedding. I either use paper towel, green moss, hatch-rite, or peat moss for my humid hides. |
Diet: | Carnivorous |
Description of Diet: | They are insectivores. They eat a staple of crickets and Meal-worms, dusted with Calcium Supplement. Avoid over-using calcium with vitamin D-3. Also, wax-worms, silkworms, and, if the gecko is old enough, super-worms. Do not over feed leos wax-worms. Wax-worms are high in fat and highly addictive. |
Supplements, Nutrition and Usage: | Again, dust food with Calcium Supplement. Always keep a shallow bowl of Calcium in the tank. |
Maintenance: | Spot clean the tank on a daily basis, and completely clean out the tank every six months. Replenish the water daily. Try to handle the gecko, and get it used to you. Incase of an emergency, you want to be able to handle it easily, without putting too much stress on the gecko. |
Some Words on this Species: | Leopard geckos are great for beginner herp keepers, as well as for experienced enthusiasts. What’s not to love? Great personality, easy to breed, and they come in designer colors!
Just remember new keepers, just because they are good starter lizards, doesn’t mean you shouldn’t do proper research. I have over thirty of these amazing lizards, and I know first hand how rewarding and fun they can be. |
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