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Uromastyx Mali Care Sheets
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Care Sheet for Uromastyx

Average Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 4.14    (1=lowest, 5=highest)    Last Updated: 12/25/2006

Main Category:

Lizards

Sub Category:

Uromastyx

 Care Sheet Submitted By:

Anonymous

Years Experience:

1 to 2 Years

Species:

Uromastyx Mali

Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover:

Basic Uromastyx Care

Sexing and Characteristics:

Mali’s can be difficult to sex since they can mimic each other. Usually the males are larger when full grown than a female with a dark black head, feet and tails . Females are lighter , almost a tan/brown in color, with a smaller head and thinner tail base .

Mostly Active During:

Day

Substrate and Water Needs:

Bird seed and washed sifted play sand are the most popular . Never use crushed walnut shells or calci sand . Some people use several different types of substrates ,for example using a slate , tile or reptile carpet with a box of sand for digging in .If using carpet make sure the edges do not fray .Uro’s like to dig and naturally live in a rocky or desert area .Uro’s under 7 inches should be on paper towels with no sandbox .Healthy Uro’s get their water from their foods and should not have a water bowl in the cage since it will increase the humidity . Only a dehydrated Uro would need a water bowl place in the cage for short periods of time then taken out .

Lighting and UVB:

They need bright lights during the day and a good UVB light . Mega Ray Mercury Vapor bulbs are worth the extra expense . UVB fluorescent bulbs should be no less than 7% and changed at least every 5-6 months . The UVB bulbs need to be 12" or less from the bottom of the cage with no screen , glass or plastic between the Uro and the light or the UVB rays will be blocked.UVB rays will give the Uro vitamin D which in turns helps it process calcium , without it he could develop MBD. I disagree with some people that say they do not need a UVB light . Better to be safe than sorry . Lights should be on approx . 12-13 hours a day and off at night .Natural sun light can be provide by taking your Uro outside in a secure enclosure, if 90 degrees but monitor and provide a shaded area .

Temperatures and Humidity:

Day time temps . should be 120-130 degrees Fahrenheit over the basking area , 100 ambient air temp . and 80-85 degrees at the cooler end of the enclosure .Night time temp. of 65-75 degrees . I prefer 72 . These are desert animals so I would aim for humidity below 20 % but if you can not always achieve that and you have the proper lighting / temps. 50% should be okay .

Heating and Equipment:

Two of the most important aspects of Uro husbandry . Even a young Uro needs a cage no smaller than 4’x 12’x 24’. This is imperative ! An Egyptian needs at least 6’x24’x24’ . A secure top , two or more hides placed at each end of the cage ,a food bowl with a lip , two digital thermometers place one at each end on the cage ( stick on and cheep ones are not accurate ), a 150watt heat bulb in a ceramic socket fixture , at least one or two other lights with several different wattage of bulbs since it may be necessary to adjust due to changes in room temp. An infra red temp . gun comes in handy . Each Uro needs his own cage , they are solitary animals .

Caging Provided:

A 4’x24’x24’ aquarium , screen folding lid, with three sides of the cage covered with aquarium backing ( to provide security ). I prefer to use washed sifted play sand as a substrate with large natural rocks, a hollow log , two hides , and a y tube leading into his hide . UVB light , heat lamp and two addition lights .I am using two digital thermometers , one with a humidity gauge .

Diet:

Herbivorous

Description of Diet:

The best diet is a large variety of fresh, rinsed greens . Like Bok choy , endive, escarole , dandelion greens , edible pesticide free flowers like hibiscus , orchids , roses, Pansy , nasturtiums ,squash , mango , finch seed , dried small lentils ( no kidney beans ). Ratio for greens to fruits should be 3-1.
On occasion peas , carrots , turnip greens , or collard greens can be given .Never feed spinach , broccoli , crickets ,or worms of any kind . Hence they are herbivorous .

Supplements, Nutrition and Usage:

Supplements can be given sparingly but if you are feeding a good varied diet ,and are using a UVB light ,they are not necessary . If given , I would mix in with the greens 1/8 teaspoon or just a pinch 1 x a week . Bee Pollen Granules found at most health food stores can be given once or twice a week in small amounts .

Maintenance:

Daily spot cleaning is necessary since they drag their food around . A much better cleaning once a week ,by wiping down the glass . A complete change of substrate should be done and disinfecting the cage and contents once every 3 months .

Some Words on this Species:

Ow some creatures ! Once you have ever thing set up , there is not much added expense . They are a great size ,not to small and not to large .They can live up to around 30 years in captivity . More of a spectator type of pet ,docile , rarely bite but do not usually enjoy being held .Not for beginners or young children .
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DISCLAIMER:
The information contain in these care sheets represents only the opinions and husbandry care of members and therefore is not guaranteed to be 100% accurate or reflects the advice or opinions of RepticZone.com. It is always advised to seek additional information or the advice of a qualified veterinarian or qualified reptile dealer. It is also advisable for you to a good amount of research before implementing any of the ideas and care described in these care sheets. We also recommend you ask many questions in their related forums before acting on any information.

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