Care Sheet for Frilled DragonsAverage Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 3.88 (1=lowest, 5=highest) Last Updated: 01/12/2007 |
Main Category: | Lizards |
Sub Category: | Frilled Dragons |
Care Sheet Submitted By: | Pikeman |
Years Experience: | 10 to 15 Years |
Species: | Frilled dragon or Chlamydosaurus kingii |
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover: | just frillies |
Sexing and Characteristics: | As a general rule, males will be significantly larger as adults than females. males may also have a larger head and frill, and more elaborate coloration. males also have much larger femoral pores. and males are often less skittish. |
Mostly Active During: | Day |
Substrate and Water Needs: | For water a bin or bowl large enough for ur frillie to soak in. and drink from. substrates can be: alfalfa pellets, newspaper, wheat bran, Cyprus’s mulch or soil. |
Lighting and UVB: | The brighter the light, the better. Dragons thrive under a good full spectrum UV source. We recommend active UV/heat or mercury vapor bulbs. These bulbs work double time to give your dragon quality UV and producing heat at the same time. You may also use fluorescent UV full spectrum tubes, although they do not produce the same UV quality. Your dragon will also benefit from natural sunlight and we recommend bringing your lizard outside in an outdoor basking enclosure. However the more natural sunlight you expose them to, the less supplements you should give, especially vitamin D3 (this may also be the case when using the active UV/heat bulbs |
Temperatures and Humidity: | Basking temps should be around 100 degrees F.The cooler zone should be around 70-80 degrees.
humidity should be 50 to 70% |
Heating and Equipment: | The key to heating your enclosure is providing a temperature gradient from a hot basking zone, to a cooler area. use a ceramic heat lamp or a regular heat lamp for the night in the day depending where u live just heat lamps if ur in like vt or ny or something. |
Caging Provided: | I provided a 6x6x4 but that is although nice not necessary. the smallest is 4x3x3 but a good cage is around 5x4x4. for two at least 6x3x3 but for all these it is cheaper to build a custom enclosure. hatchling 10 to 20gs r good juvi should be at leas 40gs. remember the bigger the better. |
Diet: | Omnivorous |
Description of Diet: | "Frilled dragons are primarily insectivores and carnivores. Crickets, meal worms, and super worms should be staple food sources. Roaches and rodents of appropriate size are also relished. Never feed your dragon too large of a prey item. We suggest feeding prey 1/2 to 3/4 the size of the space between your dragons eyes.
Frilled Dragons may eat a variety of greens including collard greens, red leaf lettuce, green leaf lettuce, mustard greens, turnip greens, and dandelion greens. Stay away from iceberg lettuce, large amounts of kale, cabbage, or spinach. We also suggest a variety of vegetables such as carrots, squash, sweet potatoes, peas, corn, and fruits offered in small amounts. Other specialty additions can include cactus fruit, dandelion flowers, and hibiscus flowers. This salad mix can be offered daily using different combinations of ingredients. Not all frillies will eat veggies.
When feeding crickets, make sure your source of crickets is clean. Never feed crickets bought from a store that does not clean the cricket container. You may gutload your crickets with commercial cricket and/or we suggest offering your crickets fresh fruit, greens, and water. Remove all old food from your cricket container. Mold can be toxic to your lizards. We suggest using a moistened paper towel/sponge, citrus, or carrots to provide water for your crickets.
Whenever possible try and provide a variety of appropriate sized prey items for your dragon including super worms, silk worms, roaches, grasshoppers, preying mantis, and a variety of other bugs (not fireflies). However we strongly suggest not using bugs found outside, as they may have pesticides that can kill your dragon. Also, use waxworms in limited amounts, if at all. They contain little nutritional value, and although relished by the dragons, contain high amounts of fat.
Adults may be offered appropriately sized rodents.
We feed all of our hatchlings several times a day to ensure optimum growth and health. As dragons get older, their appetite will decrease." found on site. that i used as care sheet for me originally worked well. sundial reptile
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Supplements, Nutrition and Usage: | There are many different and often contradictory opinions/views on supplementation. Calcium, D3, and vitamin supplementation are necessary for your dragons. However, supplementation will depend on what you feed your dragons, the bulbs you use, and how much natural sun they receive. Many sources recommend supplementing small dragons daily and decreasing to once or twice per week for adult dragons. But both too little and too much supplementation can lead to problems. Therefore, we recommend going over this with your vet to find a schedule that suits the specific needs of your dragon. We suggest you supplement your young dragons daily with a ratio of 1 part Rep-Cal Herptivite to 3 parts Rep-Cal calcium with Vitamin D3. f
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Maintenance: | I cleaned the cage every week but every 2 weeks is fine. replace new water every day. take ur frillie to the vet for an exam when u first get it. |
Some Words on this Species: | Amazingly interesting animals. fun to watch. not for beginner but not only for extreme experts. very delicate species that u need alot of room for. they get used to human contact very quickly and r very rewarding and lovable pet. |
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