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White Lipped Tree Frog Care Sheets
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Care Sheet for Tree Frogs

Average Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 2.00    (1=lowest, 5=highest)    Last Updated: 02/09/2007

Main Category:

Aquatic/Land

Sub Category:

Tree Frogs

 Care Sheet Submitted By:

Chaz1234

Years Experience:

1 to 2 Years

Species:

White Lipped Tree Frog

Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover:

N/A

Sexing and Characteristics:

Mostly green but can change due to the background and/or temperature and humidity. The are considered a smaller version of the White’s Tree Frog. They can go to a dark brown to almost a blueish green in color. You can make your frog change by this rule of thumb.
The higher the temperature and lower the humidity the greener and bluer the frog.

Mostly Active During:

Day

Substrate and Water Needs:

I use potting soil but you could also use moss, coconut fiber, and repta-bed. I use a rock bowl that I bought at the local pet store change it out at least once every 2-3days. That is because I find that the crickets end up killing themselves in the bowl.

Lighting and UVB:

I suggest a 25 watt light for the a ten gallon vivarium.

Temperatures and Humidity:

I have read that you need to keep the temperature between 70 F and 78 F. So during the day I keep it around 75 degrees. Letting it drop to around 73 F at night.

Heating and Equipment:

For one frog:
a ten gallon tank
water bowl (i use the rock bowls)
a lamp with a 25 watt light
substrate
Vines
plastic plants or live doesn’t really matter
Driftwood for the tree frog to climb on
a half log is optional for a hiding spot because i find that my frog just hides up in the plants

Caging Provided:

I have provided my white lipped tree frog with a ten gallon vivarium with potting soil substrate a live fern plant. A driftwood center piece with a large plastic vine over it.

Diet:

Carnivorous

Description of Diet:

I feed my frog large crickets. This is what I do even if it is a little out of the ordinary. I buy 24 large crickets at the pet store. Get home shake about 3/4 of the crickets into the cage leaving about 1/4 in the bag. Take out that egg crate thing. Then I put some calcium powder in the bag. Shake it up so the crickets get dusted then throw them in to. I also for the crickets sake put a carrot or orange piece in their to raise some more nutritional value. This last the frog two weeks of very easily done nutritional crickets. I just bought meal worms to try because I wanted for Auzzie to have a more varied diet.

Supplements, Nutrition and Usage:

As explained above I dust my crickets and give them either a carrot or orange piece to give them extra vitamins.

Maintenance:

I do ,to make my life and Auzzie (my frog’s life) easier, do regular maintenance to avoid very major cleanup often. I mist his cage once a day. Clean up anything out of order (knocked over decorations ,etc). Change his water at least once every three days, and make sure food is always available.

Some Words on this Species:

This frog’s are very interesting to watch and have their attitude and personality. I find there hunting behavior fascinating. I have often seen my frog leap from one side of the cage to another and as the end result with a cricket being stuffed into his mouth.
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DISCLAIMER:
The information contain in these care sheets represents only the opinions and husbandry care of members and therefore is not guaranteed to be 100% accurate or reflects the advice or opinions of RepticZone.com. It is always advised to seek additional information or the advice of a qualified veterinarian or qualified reptile dealer. It is also advisable for you to a good amount of research before implementing any of the ideas and care described in these care sheets. We also recommend you ask many questions in their related forums before acting on any information.

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