Care Sheet for Corn SnakesAverage Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 4.00 (1=lowest, 5=highest) Last Updated: 03/25/2007 |
Main Category: | Snakes |
Sub Category: | Corn Snakes |
Care Sheet Submitted By: | CCFCExile |
Years Experience: | Over 20 Years |
Species: | Corn Snakes |
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover: | Most constrictor breeds that are commonly kept as pets |
Sexing and Characteristics: | Popping or probing is the only true way of identifying the sex of your snake. A vet or experienced Herpetologist should do this as inexperience can harm your snake and cause damage |
Mostly Active During: | Both |
Substrate and Water Needs: | Newspaper or Aspen I found to be the best. Aspen allows ease of cleaning as it absorbs the detritus and makes it easy to pick up and throw out. Newspaper is the cheapest but aesthetically is damned ugly!
Water should be made available at all times as a juvy a small jam jar lid is enough but as they get bigger and move into their bigger Viv’s a bigger bowl is necessary. This aids in allowing the snake to soak itself and aids in humidity |
Lighting and UVB: | None specific. My Corn has a standard 60 watt bulb that doubles for it’s heat. |
Temperatures and Humidity: | In my setup under the bulb it is 85f providing a good basking spot but the other end is 77f giving a cooler area. This helps if the snake needs to cool down
People have suggested a 40 - 50% humidity ratio, I find providing their is a good supply of water then humidity tends to regulate itself. It usually comes in to play when shedding. A snakes sign of stress is when they shed in pieces not whole skins. I clear a patch of the bedding away and replace it in a moist cloth at the first sign of shedding (when the eyes go Grey and skin dulls), I check this every 2 days and replace with a moist cloth when dry. The eyes will clear then within 48hrs they should shed. The cloth must be moist not sodden this can cause scale rot and mold if in contact with the bedding |
Heating and Equipment: | Heat mats or bulbs. Up to you but try to keep the temp no more than 87f and no less than 72f.
My setup uses a 60w bulb and that is it. |
Caging Provided: | A vivarium or aquatic tank of approx 3’ x 1’ x 1’ is adequate mine is 3’ x 2’ x 2’ for adult. Youngsters up to around 1 1/2’ can live in a smaller tank.
A place to hide like a cave would be adequate, you can use an ice cream tub with a whole cut into it if you want |
Diet: | Carnivorous |
Description of Diet: | Mice. From juvenile up to adult feed through the fazes from pinkie, fuzzy, small, medium and large. Don’t over feed as obesity causes health problems.
As a juvenile I feed 1 pinkie every 5 days as the snake grows I move to 2 pinkies every 7 days then up to one fuzzy every 7 days etc. The size of it’s largest part on the body is generally a guide that can be used as to what size mouse they can take. I also tend try and keep their bodies the same size as the width of their cheek bones. |
Supplements, Nutrition and Usage: | None, mice provide all the nutrients they need. However a sprinkling of a calcium based reptile supplement every so often probably won’t cause harm. However, it is a must to dust their food if feeding chicks as they have very little nutritional value. |
Maintenance: | The removal of the feces as often as it does it is imperative. Water must always be full and must be changed every week at the minimum but daily is recommended
Handling frequently is always good as it allows the snake to become used to you and will prevent a nervous snake. Do not handle when their eyes go Grey as they are blind or for up to 48hrs after feeding as they haven’t had time to digest their food and will regurgitate it. |
Some Words on this Species: | Corns are very placid snakes and are classed as the ’’beginner’ snake but they can be some of the most beautiful creatures. With proper care they are a pleasure to keep and handle. I have never been struck at by mine and my children hold them frequently. |
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