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Gray treefrog Care Sheets
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Care Sheet for Tree Frogs

Average Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 1.00    (1=lowest, 5=highest)    Last Updated: 06/08/2007

Main Category:

Aquatic/Land

Sub Category:

Tree Frogs

 Care Sheet Submitted By:

Mrs. froggie

Years Experience:

3 to 5 Years

Species:

Gray treefrog

Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover:

none at all.

Sexing and Characteristics:

Males are smaller, and crock, females are bigger and no not crock.

Mostly Active During:

Night

Substrate and Water Needs:

Water: A large water dish that has clean water in it should be provided at all times. The water should be changed every day or when it appears to be dirty. Treat tap water with tap water conditioner before using it in the frog’s cage to remove chlorine, chloramines and hard minerals, or use bottled spring water.
Suitable substrates include coconut husk fiber (bed-a-beast, forest bed, eco earth) or other safe soil, moist paper towels, foam rubber, or large river rocks. Avoid using aquarium gravel, small pieces of bark, reptile cage carpeting, or sand, because these substrates can cause health problems if accidentally ingested by the frog while feeding. Gray tree frogs are arboreal and need a number of good perches and climbing branches. Driftwood, cork bark tubes, bamboo poles, or simply PVC piping, can be positioned at different angles in the cage to provide varying perches. Live or fake plants can be draped over these perches to provide hiding areas. Cork bark flats can be placed against the side of the cage to provide additional shelter.

Lighting and UVB:

I use a 75 watt bulb to heat the tank.

Temperatures and Humidity:

Temperature: Gray tree frogs are very hardy in regards to temperature. They can tolerate temperatures as low as 50F (10C) and as high as 90F (32C) for short periods of time without harm. Ideally the cage should be kept between 68F and 78F (20C and 26C) during the day with a slight drop in temperature at night. A low wattage light bulb can be placed above the cage on cooler days to provide a warmer area for the tree frog. They are not tropical amphibians and do not require humid conditions, although occasionally the cage can be misted with water at night to temporarily increase the humidity in a similar way to the temporary increase in humidity that they would experience in the wild after a rainstorm.

Heating and Equipment:

Same as before.

Caging Provided:

Cage: Although gray tree frogs are nocturnal and usually remain motionless during the day, at night they become very active and will use all of the room they are provided with in captivity. A 15 gallon high aquarium that measures 20 inches long by 10 inches wide by 18 inches high (51cm by 25cm by 46cm) is large enough for two adult frogs, although more room is better. A tight-fitting screen cover is essential to prevent escapes. It may be helpful to cover all but one side of the aquarium with black poster board or aquarium background to help reduce stress and make the frog feel more secure.

Diet:

Carnivorous

Description of Diet:

Food: Gray tree frogs have a large appetite. They will accept most soft-bodied insects including crickets, moths, flies, wax worms, small silkworms, and earth worms. The majority of their diet should consist of live crickets. These can be offered every two or three days in quantities varying between three and six feeders at a time depending on the size of the frog and the size of the cricket. Every few feedings a different type of food item can be substituted for crickets. Juvenile frogs should be fed more frequently than adults, as often as every day. The food should be coated with high quality reptile vitamin and mineral supplements every two to four feedings. Juvenile frogs should have their food supplemented more often.

Supplements, Nutrition and Usage:

Use a calcium dust every 2 weeks.

Maintenance:

N/A

Some Words on this Species:

I’v got 1!
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DISCLAIMER:
The information contain in these care sheets represents only the opinions and husbandry care of members and therefore is not guaranteed to be 100% accurate or reflects the advice or opinions of RepticZone.com. It is always advised to seek additional information or the advice of a qualified veterinarian or qualified reptile dealer. It is also advisable for you to a good amount of research before implementing any of the ideas and care described in these care sheets. We also recommend you ask many questions in their related forums before acting on any information.

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