Care Sheet for Ball PythonsAverage Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 0 (1=lowest, 5=highest) Last Updated: 06/17/2007 |
Main Category: | Snakes |
Sub Category: | Ball Pythons |
Care Sheet Submitted By: | Rockyhorror |
Years Experience: | 3 to 5 Years |
Species: | Ball Python, Royal Python |
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover: | none |
Sexing and Characteristics: | Ball pythons can only be sexed by popping or probing, to be done by a professional.
Females tend to get larger than the males. Females range from five to six feet and males range from four to five feet. Of course there are always exceptions to the rule as no reptile follows a certain growth chart. Just like humans they all develop at their own rate.
Ball pythons are nocturnal, originating from Africa. They spend most of their time in the wild sleeping in termite mounds or other holes in the ground. They are ambush hunters, enjoying to poke their heads out of their hides to find whatever is passing by. |
Mostly Active During: | Night |
Substrate and Water Needs: | There are several different substrates that can be used for
ball pythons. Newspaper and paper towel are nice for quick and easy clean up. Aspen works well as does Bed a Beast or similar products. DO NOT USE CEDAR OR PINE BEDDING AS IT IS POISONOUS TO REPTILES.
Clean fresh water should be provided at all times. Ball pythons do not need to soak or swim so the size of the water dish is up to the owner. If you find your snake soaking it could be a sign of illness, mites or improper temperatures. |
Lighting and UVB: | Since ball pythons are nocturnal they need no special lighting. |
Temperatures and Humidity: | Ball pythons need about a ten degree temp. difference between the two sides of their enclosure.
Cool side should read about 82, not to drop below 80
Warm side should read about 92, not to rise above 95.
Humidity should range around 50% - 60%
Humidity levels are important as they aid in shedding and keep the snake hydrated. Too high of humidity can lead to illness. |
Heating and Equipment: | The best heating element for ball pythons would be an under the tank heater ( UTH) or heat tape. Ball pythons need belly heat for proper digestion. ALL UTH OR HEAT TAPE MUST BE USED WITH A THERMOSTAT TO KEEP TEMPERATURES AT A SAFE LEVEL. It is not an option.
Basking lights are only used in glass aquariums to keep the ambient temp up. |
Caging Provided: | For young ball pythons a ten gallon would be appropriate size. You can also get a thirty gallon breeder and just section it off while your snake is younger. A thirty gallon is appropriate for most adult ball pythons.
Another popular choice for housing is plastic tubs. Many companies sell reptile racks that work well.
All ball pythons need TWO IDENTICAL HIDES. Half log hides do not work well as ball pythons like to be enclosed on all sides. Many people make their own hides with upside down bowls. Just cut out a hole for the snake to get into and you are set.
Ball pythons will spend most of their time hiding, so they like lots of things in their enclosure. They do not care to climb much so branches and things can be for decoration. Please note that they will used these to try to get out of the cage though to make sure it is locked some way. |
Diet: | Carnivorous |
Description of Diet: | Ball pythons eat rodents, either mice or rats. They are imprint feeders so they can be tricky to switch food sources. If possible get a hatchling that is already eating what you wish to feed it forever. Although many people used to say that Ball pythons were picky eaters, we have found that it is simply not true. With proper husbandry, a healthy ball python will not refuse a meal. If you are getting meal refusal check your temps and humidity.
Most hatchlings are started on mice fuzzies or rat pinks. Mice pinks are too small even for the youngest ball python.
Always feed your snake a rodent that is a bit smaller than the largest part of your snakes girth. By about six months old most ball pythons are eating what they will for the rest of their adult life. Either adult mice or small adult rats. Large meals are not needed for ball pythons.
Feeding should occur every seven days. Setting up a good feeding schedule is important to have happy healthy eaters.
Do not handle your snake for 48 hours after feeding. This will let them properly digest their meal. |
Supplements, Nutrition and Usage: | No supplements are needed. |
Maintenance: | Maintenance is very simple. Making sure that the cage is clear of fecal matter and urine/urates and giving clean water everyday is basic care. Once you have the right equipment, ball python keeping is quite simple. |
Some Words on this Species: | Ball pythons are docile snakes wonderful for beginners. It is important to do research on the species and make sure you have the right equipment before buying your new snake. |
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