Care Sheet for Ball PythonsAverage Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 0 (1=lowest, 5=highest) Last Updated: 07/19/2007 |
Main Category: | Snakes |
Sub Category: | Ball Pythons |
Care Sheet Submitted By: | Freakie_frog |
Years Experience: | 5 to 10 Years |
Species: | Ball Pythons |
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover: | Any form of the species Python regius |
Sexing and Characteristics: | Sexing should only done by a train or experienced person as injury can occur. Sexing is done by one of two methods.
1: Popping; this method requires much care and cause the snake to evert its sexual organs.
2: Probing; this method requires as much if not more care than popping. A small thing steal rod is inserted in the vent. The depth is used to determine the sex
Males: as adults tend to be a smaller leaner bodied animal and typically don’t grow to over 4 feet in length. However large males have been known to exist
Females: Larger "chunky" bodies as adults. Typical grow no larger than 6 feet but larger females have been known to exist.
Ball pythons are a medium sized ground dwelling African species of constrictor. Their typical choice of habitat in the wild is in termite mounds and old gerbil holes.
Their colors range for the normal brown to tan with black blotches to the extreme morphs of the Piebald and the Spider ball |
Mostly Active During: | Night |
Substrate and Water Needs: | SUBSTRATE:
can range from something as simple as newspaper to the more visual coconut husk bedding.
Keepers should avoid bedding in partials small enough for the snake to ingest during feeding. The ability to maintain humidity is a must.
Keepers must also avoid bedding made of any wood that contain aromatic oil. I.E pine, Ceder etc.
WATER:
Provide fresh water daily. |
Lighting and UVB: | Special UVA or UVB lighting is not need. A light cycle of 12 hours light and 12 hours dark. Most ambient light is enough for balls |
Temperatures and Humidity: | Temp should be as follows.
A hot side of 90-95 no hotter as injury can occur
A cool side of 80-85 any cooler than 75 is unhealthy and risks possible medical complications. |
Heating and Equipment: | Most keepers provide heat in one of two ways the first and most reliable is a heating mat/pad 9a.k.a an under tank heater0 designed for reptiles (human heat pads are not designed to provide the type of constant heat needed). If you decide to us the UTH make sure to employ some form of temperature control via a thermostat or rheostat as injury can occur with out it.
The second form is using lights. Lights can be set on a timer and heat the area they are over. BE WARNED! lights should never be used inside the enclosure NEVER!. Burns and Death will occur. |
Caging Provided: | Caging can be something as elaborate as a vivarium ( glass tank set-up) or a plastic tub.
Most males can be started in a 29gal long tank and do just fine for their whole lives. Females will need more room as they typically grow larger.
The main things to remember when choosing a home for you ball is
1: Balls do better in an enclosure with a low ceiling, remember ground dwelling not tree. Climbing is not part of their normal activity.
2: Hides should be offered. 2 hides of the exact same size. Balls love to squeeze in to tight hides. Remember with hides bigger isn’t better.
3: Open space. The less open space the better some balls seem to do. |
Diet: | Carnivorous |
Description of Diet: | Rodents:
Balls are imprint feeders. Meaning they tend to find a type of feeder and stick to it. They tend to do better if fed on the same day at the same time.
They be fed by many methods.
Live. Basically you offer a live feeder and let the snake to what snakes do.
P/K (PreKilled). The feeder is already dead prior to offering.
F/T (Frozen Thawed). These are feeders that are raise and frozen for mass production. That can be thawed and warmed prior to feeding. |
Supplements, Nutrition and Usage: | None needed. Balls receive all the vitamins they require from the whole prey item they eat. |
Maintenance: | Spot cleaning is a must and a compete enclosure cleaning and disinfecting can be done once every month or as needed.
Remember reptiles don’t normal show signs of illness till late in the illness. If you suspect you snake is ill a vet visit is in order. Because with reptiles its true better safe then sorry. |
Some Words on this Species: | Ball pythons are a rewarding snake that offer a great experience for both the new keeper and the experienced Herper. |
How Members Rated
This Care Sheet | Rate This Care Sheet
Please keep all comments constructive to Ball Pythons husbandry methods and care. Any degrading, sarcastic, or disrespectful comments will be removed. |
Total Members Rating: 0
| 1 |  ( 0 ) |
| 2 |  ( 0 ) |
| 3 | ( 0 ) |
| 4 | ( 0 ) |
| 5 | ( 0 ) |
|
|
