Care Sheet for Corn SnakesAverage Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 4.33 (1=lowest, 5=highest) Last Updated: 09/07/2007 |
Main Category: | Snakes |
Sub Category: | Corn Snakes |
Care Sheet Submitted By: | Anonymous |
Years Experience: | 15 to 20 Years |
Species: | Cornsnake (Elaphe Guttata Guttata) |
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover: | N/A |
Sexing and Characteristics: | Cornsnakes can be sexed by probing or popping. Probing involves using a specially designed probe, which is inserted in the vent of the snake. In a male, the sexing probe will travel down the length of the snakes hemipenes. In a female, the probe will not be able to be moved far.
Popping can only be done on young snakes. Pressure is put on the body right below the vent causing the male’s hemipenes to invert.
Please note that only experienced individuals should attempt either of these methods. If you’d like to have your snake sexed, check with your vet or a local breeder. |
Mostly Active During: | Night |
Substrate and Water Needs: | A variety of substrates can be used for corns. Popular choices are aspen, newspaper, Reptibark, shredded coconut fiber, artificial grass, and cypress. Please do not use cedar, pine, sand, astroturf, or gravel. Cedar and pine contain chemicals which are toxic to snakes, and the others can cause skin irritation. Aspen and newsprint are the most widely used substrates.
Water should be provided at all times. I recommend doing biweekly water changes at the bare minimum. If the snake defecates in the bowl, the water should be changed immediately. When doing a water change, rinse out the water bowl. It is best to use a non-porous water bowl, as bacteria will find less places to hide. It is recommended that the water bowl should be large enough for the snake to soak in. |
Lighting and UVB: | Cornsnakes do not require any special lighting. A regular ambient light cycle will be fine, but many owners prefer to have a light for their own viewing pleasure. For the comfort of your snake, keep this light on a 12 hour cycle. A black or red light can be used for night viewing. |
Temperatures and Humidity: | A temperature gradient should be provided. See "Heating and Equipment" for details.
Warm side: 80-85*F
Cool side: 75-80*F
Humidity: 40-50% |
Heating and Equipment: | Heating Options:
Under Tank Heater (UTH)- Usually resembles a flat plastic pad or mat that goes under the viv. Provides "belly heat" without altering the ambient air temperature.
Ceramic Heat Emitter- CHE’s raise the ambient humidity, but do not provide the belly heat which is essential for digestion. Can dry out the air in the viv and lower humidity.
Heat Tape/Heat Cable- Very similar to a UTH, but often designed to be used in a rack with multiple vivs.
Heat Lamps- Heat lamps raise the ambient air temperature, and can greatly dry out the air.
HOT ROCKS ARE NOT AN ACCEPTABLE METHOD OF HEATING THE VIV. They can get extremely hot and burn the snake.
Any heat source you choose must be regulated by a thermostat or rheostat. A thermostat has a temperature probe and can be set to keep the viv around a desired temperature at the location of the probe. Rheostats control the amount of power which is allocated to the heating device.
Personally, I would recommend having a UTH, with a thermostat. This system allows you to set the desired temperature and leave it, without having to check the temperature.
Whatever you decide, a good digital thermometer with a probe is required. These can be purchased at most pet stores for under $10. A humidity gauge with a probe is also highly recommended.
It is also helpful to have a small gram scale to weigh your snake. These can be purchased in the kitchen section of almost any store. |
Caging Provided: | Common forms of caging are glass/acrylic tanks, steralite containers, and professionally made cages. An adult corn requires a cage the size of a 20L, or 28QT sweater box, whereas a snake up to a yearling can be housed in a viv the size of a 10 gallon.
Glass/acrylic tanks- These are usually modified fish tanks or specially made Critter Cages. A screen top should be used on these type of habitats, and it should be firmly secured with clips. These tanks are typically in the medium price range, and have good visibility. These are a good option for small scale hobbyists and strictly pet owners. These do take up a lot of room, but look very nice.
Steralite Containers- Breeders frequently use steralite containers in racks to house their animals. These containers are almost clear, but do not provide the great visibility of glass. These containers are very inexpensive, and stackable. A soldering iron should be used to put holes in the lid and sides to provide ventilation.
Professionally Built Cages- These look very nice, but are often expensive. Most are stackable. Some breeders have these to display some of their more expensive or exotic animals.
It is also possible to build your own viv, but this is usually not a good option for a beginning hobbyist. |
Diet: | Carnivorous |
Description of Diet: | Cornsnakes should be fed an appropriately sized prey item. This is the guide I use for feeding corns, known as the Munson Plan, after it’s creator.
"-When they’re on single pinks (2-3g), I feed every 4-5 days. (Snake = 4-15g)
-Double pinks (3g x 2) every 4-5 days. (Snake = 16-23g)
-Small fuzzies (5-7g) every 5-6 days. (Snake = 24-30g)
-Regular fuzzies (7-9g) every 5-6 days (Snake = 30-50g)
-Hoppers (9-12g) every 5-6 days (Snake = 51-90g)
-Weaned (14-20g) every 7 days (Snake = 91-170g)
-Adult (24-30g) every 7-x days (Snake = 170+)
-Jumbo Adults (40-50g) every 7-x days (Snake = 400g+)
Note: Adult females are fed more frequently than adult males (especially following brumation). Females are fed every 6-8 days; males are fed every 7-14 days."
The girth of the prey item should not be larger than 1 1/2 times the width of the snake. |
Supplements, Nutrition and Usage: | |
Maintenance: | Regular water changes should be done. Soiled bedding should be removed, and a full cage cleaning should be done every 1-3 months. |
Some Words on this Species: | N/A |
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