Care Sheet for Water DragonsAverage Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 0 (1=lowest, 5=highest) Last Updated: 11/16/2007 |
Main Category: | Lizards |
Sub Category: | Water Dragons |
Care Sheet Submitted By: | Anonymous |
Years Experience: | 1 to 2 Years |
Species: | Chinese or Asian Water draons |
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover: | Similar to the Australian Water Dragon with some exceptions.. |
Sexing and Characteristics: | It is almost impossible to sex a Water dragon before it reaches 18 inches long from snout to end of tail.
Females are sleeker in form. They don’t have a large crest and the spikes on their back and tail are relatively small. Their heads are also smaller or more narrow. They only have one bump under the tail and they only grow to about 2 feet.
Males are larger. They, at 18 inches, should be showing male characteristics, such as a larger head, larger crest,. Spikes will be bigger. The more sure way to know if you have a male is by checking the underneath for the hemipenis, which are located at the base of the tail underneath. the other way are the femoral pores, located on the inside of the thighs. |
Mostly Active During: | Day |
Substrate and Water Needs: | Hatchlings only need something simple like paper towels or newspaper. Sub-adults and adults need a more permanent substrate. You can use a loose substrate, but most people prefer to use tiles, repticarpet, or indoor/outdoor carpet because it’s much easier to clean.
Water is a must, of course. A large container should be used for them to swim in and also to defecate. Lol this is where they "go". It should be cleaned at least once every couple days, or once a week if you use filtering. it should stay around 79 deg. |
Lighting and UVB: | A UVB is used to help them absorb the calcium they need to prevent Metabolic Bone Disease. This is a very serious disease very common in Water dragons and cannot be overlooked. this is very important. They also need a basking bulb. they love to bask and without this source, can become lethargic, non-active and develop health issues. they also need it for heat. Tho all pet stores carry basking bulbs, you can save money and use regular house bulbs, which provide the light and heat they need. You can also provide a nightlight for the winter |
Temperatures and Humidity: | There should be 3 temperature gradients. the warm side, at about 85 deg; a cool side, at about 75 deg; and the basking spot between 90-93 deg.
Humidity should range from 50%-75%. |
Heating and Equipment: | Heating sources are a must! and lighting is also very important.
For heat you can use light bulbs or ceramic heat emitters. Heating pads and heat rocks are dangerous and not recommended.
Lights: basking (house) bulbs, UVB setup, night lights if needed, daylight or over head for more light or heat. It depends on your setup, as to the wattage for the bulbs. you just have to try different ones out.
Other equipment: extension cords, timers, temp gauges, humidity gages, water pump/water fall, extra bulbs..
some of this is according to your setup and needs. |
Caging Provided: | I built my own cage out of wood. It’s 48" high, 32" long and 32" deep. To seal the wood, i coated it with polyurethane (3 coats) and let it air out for a week. i only put a screen top on, tho because i didn’t have the tools to make holes for the lights and ventilation. I covered 3/4 of that with window plastic to keep in the heat and humidity.
Also, i added branches from outside. Being from outside, i had to soak them in 10-1 bleach/water solution and rinsed repeatedly. Then i installed shelves for hides and for him to have different levels and heights needed. I added silk plants and real plants for hides and a hammock that he loves. |
Diet: | Carnivorous |
Description of Diet: | A list of food items:
Staple food items: Crickets, Locusts, Roaches, Grasshoppers, Super worms, Earthworms, Phoenix worms, Butter worms, Silkworms.
On occasion: Meal worms, wax worms, Pinkies
Veggies/Fruits: Collard Greens, Kale, Kiev, Turnips, Broccoli, Squash. Fruits: Strawberries, Raspberries, Blueberries, Bananas.
Most Water Dragons wont even touch fruits and veggies, but some have been known to. They are not necessary. |
Supplements, Nutrition and Usage: | Calcium: Sprinkled on food items every other feeding.
Multivitamins: Sprinkled on food items once a week. |
Maintenance: | Clean Vivarium once a week, and the water/pool once a day or week if you have filter system.
Mist cage with water bottle 3-4 times a day depending on the area you live in. You can also use a humidifier or mister/fogger. Or use a water feature to keep the humidity up.
Change UVB every 6 months to a year.
Soak your Water Dragon in 78 deg water in bathtub or sink (recommended every 2 weeks or every week while shedding).
Be sure to gut load the food items or they will die (check out care sheets for that food item). |
Some Words on this Species: | Water dragons are not a "starter" herp. they require a lot of care, time, money and patience. they are mostly docile, but do get attitudes and might tail whip you. they are not known for biting. they can be a very rewarding addition to your family of herps of lizard. also, they are not the hardiest and, if sick, go down quick, so keep a vet close at hand. tho, so far, mine is active and healthy and very loving and i just love him.
When you purchase a new Water dragon, they should be a bright green, bright eyed, and alert. With head held high and not lethargic. Also, check for missing body parts: tails, arms, toes.. |
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