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Emperor Scorpion (Pandinus Imperator) Care Sheets
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Care Sheet for Scorpions

Average Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 3.00    (1=lowest, 5=highest)    Last Updated: 12/08/2007

Main Category:

Non-Reptile/Amphibian

Sub Category:

Scorpions

 Care Sheet Submitted By:

Ditzzy

Years Experience:

Under 1 Year

Species:

Emperor Scorpion (Pandinus Imperator)

Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover:

N/A

Sexing and Characteristics:

On the underside of a scorpion, there are two feathery- looking things that form a V. These are called pectines. On males, they are longer, and larger than the females.

Also, the females are larger, longer, and slimmer than the males.

Mostly Active During:

Night

Substrate and Water Needs:

The recommended substrate is Sphagnum Peat Moss and should be from 4 to six inches deep, for burrowing. They are born to burrow. There should be fresh water in a shallow dish, with something laying in it where the scorpion can pull itself out if possible. They will drown if the water is too deep and they can’t get out!

Lighting and UVB:

No lighting is required.

Temperatures and Humidity:

The temperatures should be from 75*Fahrenheit on the cool end, and 80*F on the warm side. The humidity should be 80- 85%. Mist daily. Humidity must be raised to 90% when molting. If the humidity is too low, the exoskeleton it is shedding will be too hard for it to loose. Also, the same if the humidity is high,
95%+, the exoskeleton will be elasticity.

Heating and Equipment:

Heating equipment is only required if where you live is cold, or you want to have two different temperatures in your tank, if so , then you need a UTH (under tank heating) pad
on/ under one side of your tank.

Caging Provided:

If there is only one, they can be kept in a ten gallon plastic or glass tank. have one SHALLOW water dish, and at least two hides. Add 5 gallons and two hides per extra scorpion.

Diet:

Carnivorous

Description of Diet:

They eat 2-4 crickets per week. Large ones have been known to feed on small hairless mice. They can survive up to one and a half months without food, as long as they have plenty of water. (But, please do not try to test this theory, be kind to your animals.)

Supplements, Nutrition and Usage:

None are needed, but you can dust your crickets with calcium supplement.

Maintenance:

Be sure to spot clean daily, (pick up feces, leftover food, things like that.) Clean out thoroughly every other week. (change substrate, scrub tank)

Some Words on this Species:

(Emperor Scorpion/ Imperial Scorpion/ pandinus imperator.)
Emperor scorpions are one of the largest scorpions in the world. Emperor scorpions are very docile and timid. Therefore, they are the most popular beginner scorpions to have. In fact, they are threatened with extinction from exportation. They live up to 5-8 years in captivity. They grow up to 5-8 inches. The females are bigger, longer and more slender than the males. All scorpions have a stinger on the end of their telson (tail). All of them are venomous. Emperors have venom similar to wasps or bees. If you are not allergic to those, then a scorpion sting will just hurt for a few minutes, but is not deadly, unless you are allergic. They will pinch but rarely sting. An adult Emperor’s pedipalp( claw) is possible of breaking a pencil in half. These scorpions are fascinating to watch. They spend most of their day underground, or under hides. Handling is not recommended for any scorpion, but some people have been known to. They can very easily be stressed if handled too much or the tank lid being opened repeatedly. They can die from stress. Lifting them from the tail is very hazardous to the scorpion. It is best to scoot them onto your hand from behind. An Emp. becomes sexually mature in a year or so. Scorpions mate by doing a "dance" called promenade-a-deux. The male will grab the females pedipalps with his. He leads her to a flat surface to deposit his spermatophore. He pulls her over the site where she will lower herself and transfer the sperm through her genital opening. The gestation period is from 6-9 months. A few months later as birth nears, whitish masses will show under the intersegmental membrane. When born the scorplings travel on the mothers back. She may cannibalize. After a few molts they will go their separate ways.
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DISCLAIMER:
The information contain in these care sheets represents only the opinions and husbandry care of members and therefore is not guaranteed to be 100% accurate or reflects the advice or opinions of RepticZone.com. It is always advised to seek additional information or the advice of a qualified veterinarian or qualified reptile dealer. It is also advisable for you to a good amount of research before implementing any of the ideas and care described in these care sheets. We also recommend you ask many questions in their related forums before acting on any information.

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