Care Sheet for CricketsAverage Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 5.00 (1=lowest, 5=highest) Last Updated: 01/31/2008 |
Main Category: | Misc |
Sub Category: | Crickets |
Care Sheet Submitted By: | Kyoss |
Years Experience: | 5 to 10 Years |
Species: | Brown House Cricket |
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover: | N/A |
Sexing and Characteristics: | Females have a long tube ( Or small depending of Age ) called the Ovipositor. The male has no ovipositor and tends to be alot smaller then then females. Juveniles are hard to Sex but it can be done after then start getting about 3/4 of a inch. Also Mature Males Chrip for the Female. |
Mostly Active During: | Both |
Substrate and Water Needs: | Substrates:
-Substrates is best maintained with no or little substrates. A lot or the wrong substrate can Make horrible odor (Which can be hard to get rid of) as well as it makes it hard to Clean.
Water
-I do not provide a watering area even though it can be Good to have. If you are going to provide a water bowl of some sort, provide the crickets with small pebbles or paper towel in the water. Paper towel will need to be Changed everyday but the pebbles need to be cleaned every other week or when ever you the rocks start to odor or change color. Just make sure the water is not swim-able or the crickets will drown unless they can grab on to something as they are poor swimmers. |
Lighting and UVB: | I provide no light if they are inside because its pretty warm here inside. But if you don’t like the chirp then you might have them outside, if this is the case, then provide them with 60Watt if cold outside all night and all day. If warm outside i would use a 15Watt if its 70-80 degrees.. if the temp outside is higher i would use no light. Now if its extremely cold, for say, 30 or under, i would use a 75-100Watt and cover the top with something that will not melt or burn easy. I provide a towel over the top of might so the heat will stay in but will not burn because the towel is not touching the towel and therefor its not getting hot. |
Temperatures and Humidity: | Temperature:
-Day (Outside 70-80s) 40Watt
-Night (Outside 60-70s) 40Watt
-Day (Less then 60) 60Watt + depending on the temp
-Night (Less then 60) 75Watt + depending on the temp
Warning - Do not exceed a 100Watt bulb as the Crickets will get over Heated and Die from Dehydration or just turn into a cricket taco. |
Heating and Equipment: | A Dome Light Fixture.
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Caging Provided: | 10-50: Gallon
50-100: Five Gallon
100-200: Ten Gallon
200-500: Fifteen Gallon
500+ Fifteen or More whatever you decide to do.
I like to over crowd mine. I Use lettuce for food at the bottom of the gallon tank that holds about 100 or so Crickets. Then i Provide a stack of Egg Crates from the lettuce floor to the middle of the Tank. All-Though i do over Crowd my Cricket tank dont mean you need or have to. I do mine for my own Way I raise mine. They do really good for mean in a smaller Space. Bigger Cages Makes it hard to Catch and maintain the Tank. |
Diet: | Herbivorous |
Description of Diet: | I feed my scrap lettuce from the lettuce i Feed to my Iguana. After the Lettuce is gone off of a bundle of lettuce, I save it and feed it to the crickets. Food you can use would be well... anything really edible, like carets, lettuce, broccoli, greens, Fruits, and anything like that is real good. You can also use Dog food, Cat Food, Oats and a lot more. Also you can use Gutloaded mixed with your food. |
Supplements, Nutrition and Usage: | Calcium dust is good once a week on the food. |
Maintenance: | Clean out all the dead and poop out, everyday or you can get a cricket disease that will clean out your whole colony. Change food everyday, and change the egg crates every other week or so. Spot clean the tank every week end or other weekend so no diseases start. |
Some Words on this Species: | Crickets are easy to raise and care for, you just need to watch the small details or they will catch up to you. They are Great Herp food and will be used for most Reptiles. |
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