Care Sheet for ScorpionsAverage Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 4.00 (1=lowest, 5=highest) Last Updated: 06/13/2008 |
Main Category: | Non-Reptile/Amphibian |
Sub Category: | Scorpions |
Care Sheet Submitted By: | Womble |
Years Experience: | 3 to 5 Years |
Species: | Emperor Scorpion - Pandinus imperator |
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover: | N/A |
Sexing and Characteristics: | Emperor Scorpions are large black scorpions from Africa. They are the most commonly kept species of scorpion as they are the most docile and easy to keep. They are poisonous although the sting is apparently like a bee sting. People can have severe reactions to them however if they are allergic.
The females are generally larger than the males, being about 7-8 inches, the males only about 6 inches.
The pectines on males (on the scorpions underside between the legs- white comb like things) are longer and more feathery. |
Mostly Active During: | Night |
Substrate and Water Needs: | I keep my scorpions on damp coir (coconut fiber), with vermiculite mixed in. they can also be kept on dark wood chippings (although these aren’t brilliant as they don’t allow the scorpion to burrow), compost is also a good substrate if it is relatively clean.
water should be provided in a large and shallow dish and i have aquarium gravel in mine to help them get out. They regularly drink if given access to water. |
Lighting and UVB: | Emperor’s do not like to be kept in strong light, as they tend to burrow anyway. A UV (black) light can be used to view the scorpions light up and fluoresce at night. |
Temperatures and Humidity: | Quite high humidity is needed, with damp substrate and regular mistings if it dries out.
Temperatures of about 24-28ºC are adequate. they can be cooled slightly at night. |
Heating and Equipment: | A heat mat under 1/3 of the enclosure on a thermostat is a good way to heat the viv. a heat lamp will tend to dry the cage out too much. |
Caging Provided: | I have my scorpions in a large (30x60 cm) glass fish tank with a plastic lid. i have live plants growing in the viv to keep humidity up and for aesthetic reasons.
they have a deep water bowl filled 3/4 of the way up with pea sized gravel. i have a hide one end and coconut fiber and vermiculite substrate about 4 inches deep. I have sphagnum moss covering the floor to keep humidity up and for aesthetic reasons as well.
i keep my 4 scorpions together and i have never had a problem with them fighting. i have 2 young scorplings living in a smaller setup separately which i will introduce to the group when they are a similar size. |
Diet: | Carnivorous |
Description of Diet: | Emperors will eat any thing that is smaller than themselves and moves:
crickets
locusts
mealworms (not great as they burrow too quickly before the scorp gets to them)
cockroaches (non burrowing and non glass climbing if poss.)
pinkies
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Supplements, Nutrition and Usage: | Emperors do not need any supplements but a varied diet is important. |
Maintenance: | Spot cleaning is all that is really needed after the setup is complete. Scorpions are very clean animals but the cage may need cleaning if mold or mites become a problem |
Some Words on this Species: | This is a brilliant starter scorpion and also brilliant for the advanced hobbyist. it is an easy species to breed in captivity and can be kept in groups of similar sized animals. |
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