Care Sheet for Geckos: Leopard BreedingAverage Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 2.23 (1=lowest, 5=highest) Last Updated: 03/08/2004 |
Main Category: | Lizards |
Sub Category: | Geckos: Leopard Breeding |
Care Sheet Submitted By: | Dusty |
Years Experience: | 3 to 5 Years |
Species: | Most geckos and lizards |
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover: | Leopard Geckos |
Sexing and Characteristics: | Males genrally have visible pores on the underside of the back legs. They may also appear to have "nuts" aka hemipenes. |
Mostly Active During: | Night |
Substrate and Water Needs: | Avoid sand (contraversy over impactation), clean fresh water regularly. |
Lighting and UVB: | Not nessasary but benifical |
Temperatures and Humidity: | Low humidity in cage, may provide hide box with moist moss for shedding |
Heating and Equipment: | Under tank heat pad/ tape, lamps |
Caging Provided: | Aquarium 10gallons + |
Diet: | Omnivorous |
Description of Diet: | Bugs and sometimes baby food (fruit type -avoid blueberrys are a laxitive-)can be laced with vitamins |
Supplements, Nutrition and Usage: | |
Maintenance: | BREEDING: will happen with a male and a female with little or no effort on your part.
Egg preperation: once the female is noticably "fatter" or bulging from eggs, or if you whitness breeding behavior; GET PREPARED.
Put a container with a hole cut in the lid in the tank at/below surface level with the hole exposed (margerine container or something like that *make sure edges where cut are not sharp*) so the animal can get in. Inside put either MOIST peat moss, moss, or vermiculite (try to avoid using with animals because of ingestion). There should be no water at the bottom of the container but it should be damp inside. Check it every day and also check in and around the water bowl. Once the eggs have been laid....
*set this up before the eggs are laid*
Incubator Materials
-styrofoam box
-50 watt aquarium heater (good quality and submersable)
-large second container that will fit in the styrofoam box (water proof and light -like a small tupperware box-) that has a lid and holes (1/4") drilled in the side
-individual container for the eggs (will have to fit in the larger box) with a lid and holes drilled in the side also (small holes about 1/8" 8-10 MAKE SURE THAT THEY’RE SMALL ENOUGH THAT THE REPTILE WONT BE ABLE TO GET OUT THROUGH IT!)
-vermiculite (dampend - mix with water, pick up handfull, squeeze water out then use-)
-small plastic pot (cut in half)
-marker (sharpie or something)
Fill 25-50% of the foam box with water, put the heater in and turn the temp to required icubation temp (most reptiles are about 80-84 *DO NOT GO OVER 86 UNLESS YOU ARE POSITIVE THAT IS THE REQUIRED TEMP*) then put in the first box in floating on the water and put a small layer of vermiculite on the bottom of that box. Then put the second container in and fill it half full with vermiculite. Put the pot in up side down in the vermiculite so the holes on the bottom are facing |
Some Words on this Species: | (continued from above)
Once the eggs are laid (before you touch them) mark them with a black dot on the upper most point of the egg. if the egg is side ways mark the side of the egg, if it is upside down mark the bottom (which is on the top). If at any point the egg moves always position it so that that is the upper most point. Now place the eggs in the incubator, and cradle it in the pot’s hole(s). Try to avoid letting the egg touch the vermiculite (for hyper hydration reasons) After you put the eggs in close the small container, the big container and the styrofoam box. Check the eggs every couple days and whipe the condensation off the inner lid that the eggs are in (try not to get dropletts on them either).
If any eggs go BAD (smell gross) take them out. If they get mould whip it off but do not throw them out unless you are sure the baby’s dead.
Note: some eggs that are laid may get a little dehydrated and dent if not found soon enough, Still incubate these sometimes they come back.
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