Care Sheet for Geckos: CrestedAverage Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 0 (1=lowest, 5=highest) Last Updated: 11/02/2008 |
Main Category: | Lizards |
Sub Category: | Geckos: Crested |
Care Sheet Submitted By: | CrestieLuvR |
Years Experience: | Under 1 Year |
Species: | Crested Gecko |
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover: | Gargoyle Gecko |
Sexing and Characteristics: | Adult males have a bulge near the vent. Adult males will also have pores around the vent area. |
Mostly Active During: | Night |
Substrate and Water Needs: | For a substrate I use wood chips. Never use cedar bedding because it has oils that irritates the skin on herps. |
Lighting and UVB: | No additional lighting is necessary, but I use a red heat lamp. Red heat lamp are suggested because they don’t have harsh light that prompts the gecko to hide all day, and it also feels like real sunlight. |
Temperatures and Humidity: | 70-80 F degrees. Can easily withstand drops to the mid-60’s at night. Prolonged periods of time with low temperatures can cause problems. |
Heating and Equipment: | A red heat lamp is suggested. I have heard some people have been successful with using an undertank heating pad, but I have never tried it. |
Caging Provided: | For a young gecko, a five to ten gallon is suggested. I use a 20 gallon for one adult gecko, and a 30 gallon for two to three geckos. A taller than wider tank is suggested because crested geckos are arboreal, meaning they climb, and they can easily climb up smooth surfaces, such as glass. Do not keep two males together or else they will fight and eventually kill one. Only keep males and females during breeding season if you want them to breed, otherwise, the female would be laying eggs WAY too often and stress both of them out way too much. |
Diet: | Omnivorous |
Description of Diet: | In the wild they eat insects and fruit, but in captivity a very convenient diet has been discovered. Repashy Superfoods Crested Gecko Diet provides a complete diet for your gecko. You just mix one part diet to two parts water and there you go! Change diet that has been in the cage every day and have it available at all times. I feed my geckos solely on this and so far so good. If you would like to feed your geckos insects, crickets, silkworms, and phoenix worms are suggested. Mostly, crickets are used, but they must be supplemented. Phoenix worms are small, very nutritious, dont need to be supplemented, move around alot so most geckos enjoy them, and many geckos can be fed this solely with fruit. Silkworms, I have heard, makes a great feeder insect as well, but I am not sure if crested geckos would find them appealing. Blended fruits such as bananas, guava, mango, etc. is suggested. Can be frozen and pieces of the blended fruit can be broken off and thawed. |
Supplements, Nutrition and Usage: | A calcium-phosphorous supplement should be used for crickets, but I do not have very much experience with crickets or supplementation. |
Maintenance: | I pull poop off of the walls of the cage and the decorations whenever I see some, and change the bedding every 3-4 weeks. I feed them the Repashy diet every day, and I do a full rinse out of the cage every 3 months or so. |
Some Words on this Species: | A very good beginner species, usually calm down with age, my baby is very skittish but many adults I have seen LOVE to be held. They jump onto your hand when you put it in the cage. Very beautiful, come in many colors, very unique looking, and have a very interesting background. I spend hours researching them just because they are so interesting! I would strongly suggest purchasing this species if you are willing to provide the proper care and housing. |
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