Care Sheet for Ball PythonsAverage Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 0 (1=lowest, 5=highest) Last Updated: 11/15/2008 |
Main Category: | Snakes |
Sub Category: | Ball Pythons |
Care Sheet Submitted By: | Anonymous |
Years Experience: | 5 to 10 Years |
Species: | Ball Pythons |
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover: | N/A |
Sexing and Characteristics: | Sexing should be done Professionally but someone well known. Vets in my eyes suck at this as can cause great damage. i prefer popping when young over probing. |
Mostly Active During: | Night |
Substrate and Water Needs: | Water bowl does not have to be big just enough so the snake has something to drink. If larger is required for humidity reasons that is fine as well.
Bedding is always asked about. Newspaper is number one in my book. Many others use Aspen,Cypress mulch, repti carpet(woudlnt go this route) and so on. DO NOT USE PINE OR CEDAR. They give off aromatic toxins which will cause respiratory harm to the snakes. |
Lighting and UVB: | None ever needed no matter what someone tells you. |
Temperatures and Humidity: | IF these are not met you will have a problem down the road MARK MY WORD!
Warm side 90-94
Cool side 80-84
Humidity 50-60% daily Up ed to 70% during sheds.
This all must be read by using a digital thermometer.hydro reader. their 11.88 at walmarts called accurate.
Stick on dials are usually 10-15 degrees off and will never give you proper readings.
CANT STRESS ENOUGH when heating your snake use under tank heaters and use a thermostat to control them as they can get very hot when under substrate and can crack glass if high temperatures are reached and snake pees or spills water bowl.
I get all my supplies form reptile basics you’ll find everything you need to make you new snake happy |
Heating and Equipment: | UTH(under tank heater) is all you need to keep snake warm. overhead heating is useless with snakes as they need belly heat to properly digest meals. HEATING PAD MUST BE ON OUTSIDE of cage/tub either stuck with the stick backing or taped to bottom. |
Caging Provided: | I use a racking system with 27 and 41 qt tubs.
CAGING REQUIREMENTS.
hatchlings-200 grams-5-10gal tank or 12 qt tub
200-600 grams 10 gallon or 27 qt tub
700-1000 grams 20 gal or 32 qt tub
1000+ grams 20-30 gal or 41 qt tub.
Remember height is not needed so when picking out your caging keep them small with more floor space to accommodate their ground dwelling behavior.
Must have caging set up for 48 hrs running heat before snake is introduced to its new home, so that everything is running properly. |
Diet: | Carnivorous |
Description of Diet: | Feeding is straight forward.
I feed my hatchlings every 5 days a mouse slightly smaller than widest part of body every 5 days.
Once they reach 400 grams i move to every 7 days.
hatchling BP’s will start on hopper mice right from the egg and move to lg mice very fast.
Adult bps need nothing more than 60-90 grams total per feeding once a week whether its from multiple mice or one rat.
if over fed you may create a picky eater |
Supplements, Nutrition and Usage: | None needed everything they need is within the prey |
Maintenance: | Spot clean tanks daily and clean one once every 2 weeks with a cleaning solution.
Tub cleaning is done about the same but way easier to wipe down compared to tank.
THE MORE YOU PUT IN THE CAGE THE MORE YOU HAVE TO DISINFECT AND CLEAN |
Some Words on this Species: | Very great snake if you do your homework and research first. if followed you have a great starter snake that will be fat and plump in no time. |
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