Care Sheet for Hognose SnakesAverage Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 0 (1=lowest, 5=highest) Last Updated: 05/10/2009 |
Main Category: | Snakes |
Sub Category: | Hognose Snakes |
Care Sheet Submitted By: | Domingos |
Years Experience: | 1 to 2 Years |
Species: | Western Hognose (Heterodon nasicus nasicus) |
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover: | Plains Hognose Snake (Heterodon nasicus nasicus)
Dusty Hognose Snake (Heterodon nasicus gloydi)
Mexican Hognose Snake (Heterodon nasicus kennerlyi) |
Sexing and Characteristics: | Juveniles tend to be too small to probe at birth. However, a male’s tail is noticeably longer than a female’s.
Western Hognoses (excluding morphs) are "sandy" colored; mainly tan with dark blotches. They have keeled scales with an upturned snout used for digging. Hence the common name, hognose. The belly consists of a checkered pattern of light tan/white and black. The tail’s color fades a bit compared to the body.
Western hognoses grow anywhere from 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 feet long, where males fall into the shorter range. Females are
longer and thicker. |
Mostly Active During: | Day |
Substrate and Water Needs: | Reptisand, aspen, and newspaper/paper towel can be used as a suitable substrate. Newspaper/paper towel is easy to maintain.
However, I use aspen to enhance the appearance of the habitat. The aspen must stay dry, however, especially since the hognose enjoys burrowing. Excessive moisture or dampness may cause illness (including respiratory problems, blisters, and scale rot).
CAUTION: Never use cedar. Oils from cedar can be fatal to reptiles.
I use distilled water, cleaning the dish every few days.
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Lighting and UVB: | Studies are inconclusive on whether UVB is necessary. However, since these snakes are diurnal, a fluorescent light can be used to lure them out of "hiding". |
Temperatures and Humidity: | Temperatures range from 75 F. (cool) - 85 F. (warm). falling 5-8 degrees at night. I use an undertank heating pad with a thermostat to adjust temps accordingly. Occasionally, the warm side rises to low nineties. During the colder months, an additional overhead infrared light may be used.
Western hognoses require low humidity. During shedding, I mist the enclosure and offer a soak. Otherwise, I don’t stress too much about humidity. |
Heating and Equipment: | I use an undertank heater, with an overhead infrared heating source (when necessary). A thermostat is used to control heat.
I provide two hides, (one on the cool end and one on the warm end). I also include some artificial vegetation for cosmetics. |
Caging Provided: | Juveniles do well in small enclosures. A five gallon enclosure or smaller would be sufficient. As sub-adults/adults a ten gallon enclosure (for a single male) and 15-20 gallon (for females) are suitable. Although poor climbers, make sure you have a cover with locks (just in case).
I firmly believe these snakes should be housed separately for safety/health precautions. |
Diet: | Carnivorous |
Description of Diet: | Captive neonates eat small pinkies, graduating to larger pinkies as they mature. I prefer frozen/thawed. As adults, they eat appropriately sized mice. Make sure that the rodent is no larger than the diameter of the snake.
Males tend to be pickier eaters.
Few tricks:
1. Split the rodent’s brain and offer in a small enclosure.
2. Scent the rodent with toad, anole, or tuna.
3. Continue to offer food every week and exercise patience.
Juveniles should be fed every 4-5 days; adults, every 7-10 days.
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Supplements, Nutrition and Usage: | No supplements recommended. |
Maintenance: | Spot clean and change substrate monthly. Make sure that clean water is provided at all times, maintain proper temperatures, and keep the substrate relatively dry. |
Some Words on this Species: | These miniature "Prairie Rattlesnakes" are not the type of snake to have slither all over you on the couch. What drew me to them is their look (keeled scales, upturned snout) and their defense mechanisms.
They will expel a booming hiss and curl their tails, such as the prairie rattlesnake. They will go as far as strike with a closed mouth. If this bluff doesn’t work, they are the ultimate actors. They will essentially "dry" themselves up, wriggle in pain, and flip over. This death act screams for an Academy Award when they open their mouths wide and leave the tongue hanging out, sometimes with a spot of blood. Really convincing.
They are not the most active snake, but are interesting additions to any collection. Morphs, such as red albinos and anaconda hognoses, are becoming readily available. |
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