Care Sheet for Small AnimalsAverage Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 0 (1=lowest, 5=highest) Last Updated: 06/30/2009 |
Main Category: | Non-Reptile/Amphibian |
Sub Category: | Small Animals |
Care Sheet Submitted By: | Sauria |
Years Experience: | 1 to 2 Years |
Species: | Chinese Dwarf Hamster |
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover: | This care sheet is intended specifically for Chinese Hamsters, although the information could be useful for other dwarf hamsters. Always do research on the particular species you intend to buy, and there are plenty of good books and care sheets that can help you with this. |
Sexing and Characteristics: | Technically, Chinese dwarf hamsters are not dwarf hamsters-they are members of the Cricetulus genus-the rat-like hamsters. They got this name because of their skinny bodies which are about 3 inches long and comparatively long (0.75 inches) tails. Normally, Chinese hamsters are brown to gray-brown with a solid or broken dark stripe running down the back. Only one color morph has been created; the Dominant spot, which is white with random spots of normal Chinese hamster coloration. The whitest individuals are the most highly sought-after.
Sexing is easy. Males have very large and visible scrotum’s.
THESE HAMSTERS ARE HIGHLY TERRITORIAL-NO MATTER WHAT THE BOOKS SAY-AND MUST BE KEPT SEPARATELY. When we got our hamsters, the pet shop and all but one of the books we possessed claimed that they liked company. They started fighting and bloodshed was the end result. |
Mostly Active During: | Night |
Substrate and Water Needs: | The traditional substrate for this and other small mammals is sawdust, and large bags are available with nice cheap price tags. However, the dustiness of this bedding has been known to irritate hamster’s eyes. Look at the label of the bag before you buy-check that it is dust-free wood-shavings! Cat litter made from maize is another suitable substrate. The substrate should be a few inches deep as these love tunneling!
As well as substrate, you need some kind of nesting material that is comfortable for the hamster. Hay is great and they like to chew on it-providing them fiber-so is a good choice, unlike the cotton-wool type bedding frequently sold. (Little hamster paws often get entangled in the fibers and it can get stuck in the cheek pouches.) Shredded paper is another choice-you can leave them a few pieces of kitchen roll for them to tear up themselves.
Water can be provided through a small animal water bottle. Change the water daily and make sure it doesn’t leak. The cage litter should remain dry, as should the bedding material. |
Lighting and UVB: | Unlike reptiles, UV and lighting is not needed for hamsters. |
Temperatures and Humidity: | No additional heating required-hamsters have much less specialized needs than herps. As for humidity, it doesn’t need monitoring-just keep the cage litter and bedding material dry for your pet. |
Heating and Equipment: | No heating equipment needed. For cage furniture, see below. |
Caging Provided: | I use commercial dwarf hamster cages as these are fantastic and meet the needs of the hamster and the owner. You can use mice cages but the gaps between the bars on cages designed for Syrian hamsters, gerbils etc are too wide. You can also use a 10-15-gallon aquarium with a screen top. Unlike true dwarf hamsters, the Chinese is an agile climber and appreciates small branches and ropes to play with. Also equip the cage with commercial hamster toys, toilet rolls and something tasty to chew on (See "Description Of Diet"). Provide a hideout for your hamster; a margarine tub, turned upside down, lined with bedding and with a doorway cut in or a commercial hamster house are suitable. A ceramic food dish is essential. A running wheel should be considered essential too, but be cautious. Use plastic ones with solid surfaces, not the ones with bars, as small hamster paws have been known to get caught in the latter. |
Diet: | Omnivorous |
Description of Diet: | Commercial bags of hamster pallets or hamster mixes are available and are best for your pet. I use pellets but check when they go out of date-don’t buy too much at once because after the deadline passes the food looses its nutritional value. The diet should be supplemented daily with small amounts (2.5 milliliters) of washed fresh food like carrot, broccoli, peas, spinach, squash, peppers, corn, green beans, kiwis, peaches, tomatoes, watermelon, apple, plum, pear, melon, raspberry, papaya, blueberry, blackberry, strawberry and pineapple. Cut the food up so that the hamster can easily fit it into his mouth. I recently purchased a package of dried fruits and veggies (I think the brand was Boredom Breakers Naturals)) that I offer every now and then and they love it. It is best to provide fresh food daily in the evening. Commercial hamster treats can be offered on occasion, but my hamsters weren’t fans of the chocolate ones-I suppose it isn’t a natural flavor to them. |
Supplements, Nutrition and Usage: | None required, but if you have unused food that’s out of date add some drops of small animal liquid vitamins to the food before feeding. |
Maintenance: | Clean out weekly. Change food and water daily.
Most books you will read will recommend letting the hamsters come to you when you start taming. This didn’t work for us and once they had settled in after a couple of days we picked them up. At first they were nervous but we gave them a treat after each short session and repeated this daily. They were soon extremely tame. One of my hamsters will sit in your hand for ages letting you make a big fuss of him and stroke him. Sit down when you hold them. Mine likes to crawl around on my lap, but only do this with a hamster like mine who has become extremely tame and has never made a burst of speed to get away before. |
Some Words on this Species: | Despite being the least popular hamsters, they are tame, low maintenance and highly recommended as pets. |
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