Care Sheet for FrogsAverage Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 0 (1=lowest, 5=highest) Last Updated: 09/12/2009 |
Main Category: | Aquatic/Land |
Sub Category: | Frogs |
Care Sheet Submitted By: | Snyds911 |
Years Experience: | 10 to 15 Years |
Species: | Horned Frog/Pacman Frog |
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover: | Argentine Horned Frog -Ceratphrys Cranwelli. Very common, these come in three colors, Green, Brown and Albino. Greens lose their color as they mature and turn brown, and browns are brown, and albinos retain their yellow coloration throughout their whole life.
Ornate Horned Frog- Ceratphrys Ornata. Very common as well, these are all green with some red, to completely red. They are known to have a more aggressive feeding response than other species of horned frogs.
Surinam Horned Frog- Ceratphrys Cornuta. Very rare in the pet trade, most are wild caught. They are brown, but there are some imported greens. They are sometimes captive bred, but very expensive. |
Sexing and Characteristics: | Males croak, and have pads on the end of their feet. They are also about 4-5 inches. Females do not croak and stay at around a whopping 6 inches.
Both will act and look the same, and are hard to sex until about three inches. In Surinam Horned Frogs, narrower heads generally means a male.
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Mostly Active During: | Night |
Substrate and Water Needs: | Substrate should be loose, damp, eco-earth. Anything else can cause impaction. Sphagnum moss impacts. Eco-earth should be bought in the brick so it’s wet when you put it in already wet. It should be changed monthly, or whenever it gets stale. Mist the eco-earth when it starts to get dry. The pacman frog should be able to get in the eco-earth and comfortably sit in to the point that just it’s eyes and nostrils can be seen.
A fresh water bowl that is changed weekly should be provided. Treat it with water conditioner. The water dish must be big enough to allow the whole frog to sit in, but it can’t cover it’s nostrils (this is to prevent drowning.) |
Lighting and UVB: | Not required. A low wattage bulb can be used to provide heating, but there is no UVB required. However, if you are not going to use it, supplement every third feeding with calcium and d3. This is essential for fighting MBD. Once every fourth feeding as an adult is okay. |
Temperatures and Humidity: | Temps depend on species. For Ornates and Argentines, keep them in the high 70s low 80s. Cornutas should be kept in the mid 80s. All species can handle temperature variations very well though.
Humidity should be kept at 60%-80%. Mist daily if needed. |
Heating and Equipment: | A low wattage heat bulb or a heating pad on the side of the tank. The reason for this is because Horned Frogs burrow, and if the pad’s on the bottom you will cook your frog. Heating pads only heat up a small portion, so multiple may be needed if the tank isn’t hot enough itself. |
Caging Provided: | A simple Ten Gallon will work. Five is okay, but it might grow out of it. Elaborate or bigger enclosures are not needed. A hiding spot is appreciated, and a water bowl. |
Diet: | Carnivorous |
Description of Diet: | Anything that moves.
Crickets can be provided, though not nutritional. Roaches are good once they are older. But the best staple is nightcrawlers. These are nutritional, and are soft bodied. They wriggle around a lot, stimulating a feeding response. |
Supplements, Nutrition and Usage: | Supplementation of d3 and calcium should be provided every third feeding for babies, and every fourth or fifth feeding for adults. No extra vitamins are needed, but the d3 is essential because there is no UVB for them to use. |
Maintenance: | Very low maintenance once it settles in. In fact, besides feeding, that’s really all you do with it, besides watching it of course. |
Some Words on this Species: | Very laid back, this species is very easy to care for, but they don’t do much. They make a great beginner frog. They don’t die very easily. If it’s a fat frog you want, Horned Frogs will not let you down! |
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