Care Sheet for ChameleonsAverage Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 3.82 (1=lowest, 5=highest) Last Updated: 03/19/2004 |
Main Category: | Lizards |
Sub Category: | Chameleons |
Care Sheet Submitted By: | Elfomatic |
Years Experience: | 5 to 10 Years |
Species: | Chameleons--generalized |
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover: | None. Do not attempt to substitute specific species care sheets for other species. Chameleon species vary greatly in their care -- especially with regards to temperatures and humidity. This is a general care sheet. If you would like specifics, you need to seek a care sheet for your species. |
Sexing and Characteristics: | Varied ... males do live, on average, longer than females. |
Mostly Active During: | None |
Substrate and Water Needs: | SUBSTRATE:
I would not recommend substrate of any kind. Many people do put it in their enclosures but it is not necessary. Your chameleon will spend no time on the floor of the enclosure unless it is sick.
Furthermore, chameleons occasionally will be seen hunting for ckickets on the floor. If substrate is used they will ingest it and potentially get sick.
WATER:
Chameleons associate running water with drinking. It is extremely rare that you will find one that will drink out of a cup. For this reason you need to buy a drip system.
A drip system usually allows water to flow in drops onto a leaf or other surface to encourage a chameleon to drink. From the leaf it drops to a second container. You can usually buy commercial versions at any pet store that has a good variety of reptile products.
If you would like to make your own you can use dixie cups ... one hanging with a pinhole in the bottom. Be sure to screen the tops to prevent drowning.
No matter what drip system you decide to use it is important that you completely change the water every day. It gets dirty easily and even if you cannot see a difference it is important to change it.
In addition to a drip system it is important to mist your enclosure at least twice daily. This encourages hydration as well. Make sure to allow the enclosure to dry completely before misting again -- otherwise you risk mold and other things that are potentially harmful to your chameleon.
Some people put waterfalls in to stimulate drinking. I do not recommend this ... especially with gravid females...you risk drowning. |
Lighting and UVB: | LIGHTING:
One, sometimes two, basking lamps are required. Basking temperatures need to be fairly high but vary greatly by species. For instance, veiled chameleons need basking temperatures in the 90’s while panthers need it in the high 80’s. You should consult a qualified herp vet or some other professional as to the specific requirements for your species. Do NOT go by what the pet store tells you.
UVB:
You will need to provide a UVB source to prevent Metabolic Bone Disease. |
Temperatures and Humidity: | TEMPERATURES:
Again, these vary by species. However, the ambient daytime temperature is generally desired at somewhere between 85-90 degrees depending on the species. There should be a night time drop of about 10 degrees. It is generally accepted that temps should never drop below 72. If this is a problem you should invest in either a space heater or a ceramic heat emitter. Ceramic heat emitters are good because they will provide the adequate heat without light ... therefore, they do not disrupt your chameleon’s sleep patterns.
HUMIDITY:
Humidity varies by species but is desired somewhere above 60% for all. To increase humidity, you can invest in a humidifier or a mist system on a timer. Some suggest putting a pan of water at the bottom of the enclosure. I only recommend this if it is screened. |
Heating and Equipment: | HEATING:
I do not recommend a heat rock for any reptile, especially chameleons. Basking lights should give off ample heat but heat emitters are also used in some cases.
EQUIPMENT:
Chameleons are climbers and need a lot of branches and foliage. If you plan on getting branches from the wild you will need to strip them of their bark and decontaminate them before introducing them to your enclosure. This is done by either baking them for at least 2 hours at 220 F or soaking them for about a day in a mild bleach solution. Of course, make sure you rinse thoroughly and many times if you use bleach.
There are many bendable fake branches available commercially that are wonderful substitutes.
Foliage is very important to the emotional wellbeing and happiness of your chameleon. You can use either fake or real plants as long as the real plants are not poisonous. A favorite is hibiscus.
Fake plants are, of course, easier to maintain but real plants will help you maintain high humidity levels. |
Caging Provided: | The enclosure, at a minimum, should be 2’x2’x4’ for a subadult to adult chameleon. Because they are climbers, height is more important than width. Of course, bigger is always better.
It is important that at least 2 sides of the enclosure are screened -- not plexiglass, etc. This promotes good air circulation which is important with the high humidity. Otherwise, you risk respiratory infections.
For these reasons alone it is recommended that you do not use an aquarium.
You can find good enclosures commercially but you will probably have the best luck building one on your own.
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Diet: | Carnivorous |
Description of Diet: | Crickets are the staple of a chameleon’s diet. Before feeding them it is important that you "gut-load" the crickets. Feeding crickets nutrients is important because they will then be passed on to your chameleon through the cricket. If you do not gut-load you are only feeding your chameleon a shell that has little nutritional value. Commercial gut-load is readily available at pet stores.
It is generally accepted that you should not feed a cricket that is larger than the width of your chameleon’s head.
Mealworms and waxworms are other feeding alternatives. I would not recommend feeding them too often though as they are high in fat.
You can feed by either letting your chameleon free range or by feeding from a cup that they insect cannot climb out of. This option is good because it allows you to monitor more closely their food intake.
They are generally fed every day. |
Supplements, Nutrition and Usage: | Sprinkle a calcium supplement over the insects before presenting them to your chameleon. This should be done daily for babies and every other day for adults. |
Maintenance: | This particular reptile is reputed as being one of the most high maintenance reptiles to keep. While they are highly rewarding to keep they are especially high maintenance. I would not recommend this reptile to anyone but the experienced reptile keeper.
This type of reptile is very easily stressed. Housing conditions must be very exact for them to thrive. |
Some Words on this Species: | A few things:
First, do not get this reptile if you are wanting something to handle. It is extremely rare to find a chameleon who likes to be handled. Handling it extensively will significantly decrease the length and quality of its life.
Try to avoid wild caught chameleons. They are almost guaranteed to have a high parasite load. They will be cheaper to buy but will cost you much more in vet bills than the difference between their price of purchase and a captive bred chameleon.
These are solitary animals. It may be tempting to buy two or more but it is not recommended. Males will fight on sight and females can be very territorial towards each other as well.
While they are quite difficult to maintain properly, they are very rewarding creatures to keep. If you would like a challange and a truly interesting creature than this one is for you. |
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