Care Sheet for Corn SnakesAverage Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 0 (1=lowest, 5=highest) Last Updated: 01/04/2012 |
Main Category: | Snakes |
Sub Category: | Corn Snakes |
Care Sheet Submitted By: | Atlas 2010 |
Years Experience: | 5 to 10 Years |
Species: | Corn Snake |
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover: | Similar colubrids |
Sexing and Characteristics: | Snakes are very hard to sex, and should be done only by a vet or professional. The best method is probing; probing the snake’s vent will reveal hemipenes in males.
Corn snakes are lovable, interactive snakes. They love to climb and exercises, and can be tamed easily. They rarely bite, and when they do, they are stressed out to a far extent. They are medium sized snakes, averaging 3-4 feet, but some individuals may reach 6 feet. |
Mostly Active During: | Day |
Substrate and Water Needs: | Aspen bedding is the best substrate for corn snakes. Repti-Carpet can also work, but this does not provide a place to dig (and corn snakes will dig). Aspen is also easy to clean and gives your cage a nice look. A water bowl big enough for the snake to completely soak in is essential. Keep in mind that snakes will readily use their water bowls as a bathroom as well. |
Lighting and UVB: | Corn snakes do not require UVB lighting; however, a 65 watt basking bulb should be provided to maintain air temperature and to provide the snake with a day/ night cycle. |
Temperatures and Humidity: | Temperatures on the warm side should range between 80-88 F, and 75-80 F on the cool side. Humidity should be provided when snakes are about to shed by either misting the cage or providing a moist hide or both. |
Heating and Equipment: | An undertank heat pad and a 65 watt basking bulb will be enough to provide heating. Only place them on one side, as your snake will need a temperature gradient to thermoregulate. Place a thermometer on the warm side to monitor temperatures. |
Caging Provided: | A ten gallon cage or plastic tub with similar dimensions will house one hatchling. A twenty gallon can be used to house an adult snake for the rest of its life (though 30 gallon is preferable). Be sure to provide a secure, locking screen or lid, as these snakes are escape artists. They will use the smallest of nooks and crannies to escape that you didn’t even know where there. Use combination locks and screen locks to secure your enclosure.
Your snake needs two hides; one on the warm end, and one on the cool end. These should be big enough to where your snake can curl up comfortably in it. Plants can be provided as decoration. Provide branches for your snake to climb, but make sure they do not lead to an scape route or fall and crush your snake. |
Diet: | Carnivorous |
Description of Diet: | Mice are an appropriate diet for corn snakes. Hatchlings will take pinkies and fuzzies, and slowly increase the size of the prey item as the snake increases in size. Adults can be fed adult mice or an appropriately sized rat. Feed hatchlings every 5-7 days, and adults every 8-14 days. Be sure not to overfeed as this will cause obesity and other problems. |
Supplements, Nutrition and Usage: | Supplements are not required as mice already come with calcium in their bones and other vitamins and minerals in their organs and tissues. |
Maintenance: | Spot clean the cage for feces once a week. Change water daily or as needed as snakes will sometimes use their bowl as a toilet. Replace bedding as directed on bag or package, and disinfect the enclosure and all accessories every 6 months (I recommend using Zoo Med Wipe Out 1 and 2). |
Some Words on this Species: | Corn snakes are the perfect beginner snake; their small size, low maintenance, and unique personalities are enough to lure any novice or experienced herper. With good husbandry and maintenance skills, your snake could live past the ten year mark. When handling, be careful not to drop the snake; let it carefully slide through your fingers and hands, and it will soon tame down. Good luck, and have fun! |
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