Care Sheet for ToadsAverage Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 4.33 (1=lowest, 5=highest) Last Updated: 04/08/2004 |
Main Category: | Aquatic/Land |
Sub Category: | Toads |
Care Sheet Submitted By: | Zip |
Years Experience: | 3 to 5 Years |
Species: | Bombina Orientalis (Firebellied Toads) |
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover: | bombina toads in general |
Sexing and Characteristics: | They are normally a lime green with an orange belly, black spots all around. They will dull to an olive green occasionally. males are the only ones that croak, and have bigger heads. Females have longer legs. the differences, however, are so subtle you just have to keep guessing untill you find eggs... |
Mostly Active During: | N/A |
Substrate and Water Needs: | There are many different setups you can use. half land and half water is usually good, with pebbles sloping up to form a land area, with rocks and other plants in the water area for them to surface on. water should be changed weekly unless you have a filter or an ariater. if you have one of the aforementioned, then you should clean out the tank every 1 or 2 months, replace the water, and let it sit for at least 24 hours before putting the toads back in. they do seem to like moss, but do fine without it. NEVER use tap water, the chlorine can kill the ultrasensitive frogs, let the tap water sit in a different container for 2 days before putting it in the tank. if you see any dead food or other "floaters" in the water, just scoop them out. |
Lighting and UVB: | A full spectrum flourescent tube light over the top should be fine, don’t use any other kind of bulb, as the heat could easily kill your toads. |
Temperatures and Humidity: | Keep the temp in the 60-80 range. if you live somewhere really cold then you should get a heater, otherwise they should be fine. |
Heating and Equipment: | The water half should have a filter or an arieater unless you plan on cleaning it out once a week |
Caging Provided: | Me? i have a ten gallon tank, filled with about 4 inches of water. there is a land area with a rock over hang into the water, pebbles gradually sloping into the water. i have an ariator in one corner and 2 plants, one on land, one in the water. rocks on the land area provide a place to climb up on and hide behind. i have a standard lid with the lighting i listed earlier. |
Diet: | Carnivorous |
Description of Diet: | Anything they can fit in their big ’ole mouths. That neccesarily isn’t a good thing. Crickets, tubiflex worms, flies, other field plankton, guppies, worms in general, and other toads, if they are small enough. You should feed them all they can eat in 15 minutes once a week. |
Supplements, Nutrition and Usage: | If you have caged crickets you should feed them (the crickets) brand name cricket food, with calcium. don’t feed the toads any sick insects. |
Maintenance: | These little guys get really excited when eating, and will lunge at anything that moves. they will occasionally nip at each other but that is normal. |
Some Words on this Species: | Firebellies are comunal toads- they live together naturally in large groups. the more the merrier. however, like all toads, they excrete toxins through their skin. if you put any other kind of frog toad or treefrog in there with them, it will be dead in less then an hour. same thing with fish, if they’re too big to get eaten, the toxins will get to them first, very few species are exceptions. wash your hands before and after handling these guys, and... well... don’t handle them unless you have to. |
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