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Fire Belly Toad Care Sheets
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Care Sheet for Toads

Average Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 2.20    (1=lowest, 5=highest)    Last Updated: 05/28/2004

Main Category:

Aquatic/Land

Sub Category:

Toads

 Care Sheet Submitted By:

Sammywonder515

Years Experience:

5 to 10 Years

Species:

Fire Belly Toad

Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover:

Fire Belly Toad

Sexing and Characteristics:

You may be able to tell the sex of the toad because the female is generally bigger with longer legs. Also, the male will seem more dominent. When breeding, you need to give thema a place to hide.

Mostly Active During:

Both

Substrate and Water Needs:

You could have a 2 inch deep pond then a bowl (make sure it’s not the pond) filled with their drinking water. I reccomend gravel as the ground and a few "tree stumps" for them to climb on. NEVER EVER EVER EVER EVER USE TAP WATER! KILLS THE TOADS! Use bottled water if the only source available-leave out for 24 hours before putting it into the frogs cage.

Lighting and UVB:

A UVB can work just for lighting, but I think a florescent tube light should do the trick. Leave the light on for about 12 hours so they can get it warm in there. DONT let it over heat.

Temperatures and Humidity:

The Tempurature for the cage should be at least 70-85. To keep the humidity of the frog up, squirt the frog 3 times a day with warm water-In the morning, afternoon, and before bed.

Heating and Equipment:

You can buy a small water heater to keep the water warm for the frog at your local pet store. Also, you can buy a cleaner, or something else that may work but I dont reccomend is getting some little snails to clean the tank.

Caging Provided:

For 1-3 frogs, 10-15gallon tank. If you have 4 or more, get a 20 gallon or more, depending on how many.

Diet:

Carnivorous

Description of Diet:

These anphibions will eat constantly-Crickets (3-4 Morning-2 before bed except if some left), small mealworms (which I dont think should be used because the skin of the mealworms are a little tough, so the adult frog may have problems digesting, muscle failure, or even death), waxworms, bloodworms, and SOMETIMES for the adults as a treat, guppies (cut for no problems.)

Supplements, Nutrition and Usage:

I STRONGLY reccomend using Calcium/D3. Dust the crickets with the Calcium/D3 at LEAST once a week.

Maintenance:

These frogs are very easy to take care of- Every week clean/dust food/drinking bowls, ONLY clean 1/4 of water per week, and put new gravel in every 6 months. The whole tank should be cleaned by the end of 6 months.

Some Words on this Species:

This is a great beginner pet and great to hold. THESE FROGS HAVE TOXIC SKIN-WASH HANDS THOROUGHLY AFTER HANDLING! IF IT GETS TO YOUR BLOOD STREAM COULD CAUSE MAJOR PROBLEMS! Definately get one of the cuties :)
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DISCLAIMER:
The information contain in these care sheets represents only the opinions and husbandry care of members and therefore is not guaranteed to be 100% accurate or reflects the advice or opinions of RepticZone.com. It is always advised to seek additional information or the advice of a qualified veterinarian or qualified reptile dealer. It is also advisable for you to a good amount of research before implementing any of the ideas and care described in these care sheets. We also recommend you ask many questions in their related forums before acting on any information.

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