Care Sheet for Geckos: LeopardAverage Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 2.50 (1=lowest, 5=highest) Last Updated: 07/16/2004 |
Main Category: | Lizards |
Sub Category: | Geckos: Leopard |
Care Sheet Submitted By: | Anonymous |
Years Experience: | Under 1 Year |
Species: | Leopard Geckos |
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover: | N/A |
Sexing and Characteristics: | The males usually have a broader head than the females, and the males have a "V" shape of pores on their back. |
Mostly Active During: | Night |
Substrate and Water Needs: | Sand/playsand is good, except I would recommend playsand without any toxins because the geckos might accidentally ingest the sand. You can also use newspaper or paper towels , too. They are from the arid grasslands of Pakistan, Afghanistan and North-Western India, remember that. For water, just put a shallow dish and change the water every day. |
Lighting and UVB: | I would reccommend a heating pad underneath the substrate. A heating pad is good because it won’t bother the leopard geckos at night, since they are nocturnal. (unless you have a blue/red light) If you don’t want a heating pad, just a regular old light bulb will do. |
Temperatures and Humidity: | Leopard geckos should have a "warm" side of the tank, and a "cool" side of the tank. The warm side should be 86-88 degrees Farenheit (30-31 Celsius) and the cool side should be anywhere between 70-80 degrees (21-27) At night, you should lower the temperature on both sides about 5-10 degrees. (3-6) Leopard geckos don’t need much humidity, except in a hide box. (I’ll get to that later) |
Heating and Equipment: | N/A |
Caging Provided: | For my leopard geckos, since I have two, a 10-15 gallon tank is good. For one, 10 gallon is good, three, 20 gallon, four, 25 gallon, etc. You should have at least two hide boxes so the geckos can get some privacy. One should be on the cool side, one on the warm side. The hide boxes can be made out of a tupperware container or an upside down plant holder, with one access hole. The one on the warm side should have some peat moss, paper towel or any other damp things. The hide box on the warm side should be sprayed once every day to keep it moist. (Note that the hide box on the warm side is where most of your geckos will shed their skin) |
Diet: | Carnivorous |
Description of Diet: | For babies/juveniles, (geckos under 12 months old) feed crickets slightly smaller than their head and small mealworms. For adults, feed crickets the size of their head, large mealworms, king mealworms, and occaisonally pinkies (day-old mice) Babies/juveniles should be fed daily, and adults should be fed every other day. Remember, only feed them as much as they will eat. |
Supplements, Nutrition and Usage: | Some people like to put some crickets in a plastic bag, sprinkle some calcium powder and shake until coated, then feed when coated. I do this sometimes, but I find it may stress out the crickets too much. You can also just put some calcium powder in a dish, and they’ll eat as much as they need. |
Maintenance: | Leopard geckos are generally clean, and they usually only use one spot as a "bathroom" Put a paper towel in this spot, and change every day. |
Some Words on this Species: | Leopard geckoes are either one of, or the easiest reptile to care for. They are excellent for beginners with reptiles. |
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