Care Sheet for FrogsAverage Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 3.56 (1=lowest, 5=highest) Last Updated: 09/23/2004 |
Main Category: | Aquatic/Land |
Sub Category: | Frogs |
Care Sheet Submitted By: | Leokeeper |
Years Experience: | Under 1 Year |
Species: | Whites tree frog |
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover: | Green tree frog |
Sexing and Characteristics: | They can not be visably sexed exect during breeding season when the males get nuptral pads on there fore arms, these a a brownish color, also the females are bigger then the males aslo the meals tend to crock more then females. |
Mostly Active During: | Night |
Substrate and Water Needs: | Bark chunks, reptile carpet and paper towels work well, paper towels & reptile carpet are best to use because the frog cant accdently swallow the bedding while going after its dinner. Water is to be prodived in a dish that is shallow enough to pervent the frogs drowning but tall enough to allow the frog to soak up to its shoulders. The whole tank should be misted daily or twice daily to keep the humidity up. |
Lighting and UVB: | Whites tree frogs are nocturnal so no uvb lighting is needed. |
Temperatures and Humidity: | One side of the tank should be warmer then the other this can be done by placing a reptile heating pad under one side of the tank or but placing a heat lamp on one side of the cage, If a heat lamp is used be sure to use a dark bulb as you will be using this to heat the tank during the night & day. The tank should be 80/86on the warm side and 70/76 on the cool side. |
Heating and Equipment: | Heat lamp with dark bulb or under tank heat pad. |
Caging Provided: | Ten gallon tank will house one adult but a twenty gallon would be better, a Twenty gallon will house two adults but bigger is better, taller tanks are better because these are frogs that stick to the tank walls(they have toe pads) and like to climb. |
Diet: | Carnivorous |
Description of Diet: | Crickets can be the only food fed but a vaired diet is better, Food items should not be much large then the lenth of the frogs head, feed babys every two days and adults every three/four, feed babys and adults six/seven food items per feeding, Meal worms, king worms, gaint meal worms, wax worms, butter worms and pinkie mice can also be fed, limit wax & butter worms as they are fattening, also only offer pinkie mice to adults once every month or more because they are fattening, take care not to over feed as these frogs put on weight easily. |
Supplements, Nutrition and Usage: | Place any food items in a plastic bag with vitamin powder and shake a few times, then dump there diiner in there cage, this coats the bugs with the powder and this is how the frogs get there vitamins, If crickets are left running around the cage be sure to leave a piece of apple or carrot in the cage as they tend to nibble on the frogs. |
Maintenance: | Daily: Mist cage, change water. Weekly: change cage. A newly bought frog should be taken in to a vet with a fecal sample to be sure it is free from parrisites. |
Some Words on this Species: | These frogs will eat anything smaller then them so be sure cage mates are the same size, also house only whites tree frogs together dont mix species as they can possibly eat each other, be sure any water offered is decloranated are free from and heavy metals, these frogs can be handled but be sure yuor hands are clean and damp and be sure not to handle them too offen as they are easily stressed, Also provide shelter in the cage this would be plastic plants adn vines as well as some wood pieces that are safe for them to be around, With the proper care these frogs will live at lest ten years some have been reported at 15/18 years and triving! |
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