Average Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 4.69 (1=lowest, 5=highest)Last Updated: 09/26/2004
Main Category:
Lizards
Sub Category:
Geckos: Golden
Care Sheet Submitted By:
CroBiatach
Years Experience:
5 to 10 Years
Species:
Golden Gecko
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover:
N/A
Sexing and Characteristics:
Male is larger and more bold in color. Large preanal pores at the base of the tale. Female is smaller and almost always a dark greenish-brown in color, though occasionally will brighten up. Preanal pores are still present, but not to the same extent as the males.
Mostly Active During:
Night
Substrate and Water Needs:
Either Bed-A-Beast or EcoEarth(coconut husk fiber) for substrate. Water bowl always present and cleaned out regularly everyday.
Lighting and UVB:
Nocturnal(either red or blue)heat lamp. Ultraviolet light isn’t needed, though it does seem to help with the "seasonal cycle" and also they tend to be a little more active and "out and about" during the day when florescent lamp is used.
Temperatures and Humidity:
Between 70-85*F. Lower temperatures during the nigh time. Humidity should NOT be high as marginally thought, as new studies are showing that this species is not actually from the rain forest, but the Savannah areas on the outskirts of the forests.
Heating and Equipment:
Overhead heat source is better because these geckos usually send the majority of their time in the upper half of the cage, plus with live plants in the cage, the UTH doesn’t get through the bedding enough to heat the entire cage.
Caging Provided:
30-40 gallon planted vivarium.
Diet:
Omnivorous
Description of Diet:
Good mixture of fruits(bananas, peaches, apricots, typically any kind of fruit baby food or also fresh mashed up fruits mixed with a small amount of honey) and also leafy greens along with crickets, mealworms, waxworms, king/superworms, etc. If large enough, pinky mice can be offered.
Supplements, Nutrition and Usage:
Typically, I mix my vitamins/calcium in with the fruit and give that to them every other day, switching between live insects and fruits. Crickets are always gut loaded.
Maintenance:
Everyday spot cleaning of the cage to remove any fecal matter, missed crickets, etc. Also checking and/or changing the water. With live plants in the vivarium, they need to be checked everyday and dead/dying leaves need to be removed. My geckos also like to snack on the plants in the cage, so I typically remove any half-eaten or bitten plant leaves daily.
Some Words on this Species:
This is a great species to keep if you’re interested in getting into building your own vivarium. They are definitely not as aggressive as their cousins, the Tokay, and can be handled somewhat, but it must also be remembered that almost all of these guys are taken out of the wild and are just that, wild. Don’t put it past them to give you a nip or two. Many of the care sheets out there now aren’t quite up-to-date with the research and this species, so do your homework thoroughly when looking into Goldens!
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