Care Sheet for TurtlesAverage Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 4.11 (1=lowest, 5=highest) Last Updated: 01/02/2005 |
Main Category: | Aquatic/Land |
Sub Category: | Turtles |
Care Sheet Submitted By: | Lilyblueyez |
Years Experience: | 5 to 10 Years |
Species: | Red Ear Sliders |
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover: | Refering to adult RES. |
Sexing and Characteristics: | Red Ear Sliders are native to the US, Mexico, Central and some of South America. They can also be found in Canada because of irresponsible pet owners who have released their animals in the wild.
They are aquatic turtles with green or brown carapaces, and yellow plastrons with black markings. This species is identified by the matching red marks on either sides of their heads.
Red ear sliders generally live for 15-20 years in captivity. Adults normally grow to 5" to 8". Females are larger than males. These turtles cannot be reliably sexed as hatchlings. As mature animals, the males develop long foreclaws (used in the mating ritual to flutter in front of the females). In males, the tail is longer, with a thicker base than those of females and the vent is located at a greater distance from the body. |
Mostly Active During: | Day |
Substrate and Water Needs: | These turtles live in water. Therefore a tank filled with water is mandatory. Substrate is not required and can add to the cleaning routine considerably. Gravel and river stones are popular, but again, not necessary. |
Lighting and UVB: | UVB lighting is not required as long as the diet is nutritiously complete. A basking light is required. Keep this light on 12 hours a day (10 hours during the winter). It should be suspended above a suitable basking site, this is mandatory to prevent shell fungus. |
Temperatures and Humidity: | The water must be heated to 76-84 dgF. This is necessary to stimulate the appetite and to digest the food. Use at least two thermometers (preferably digital) to monitor the water temperature.
The basking site should not exceed 90 dgF.
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Heating and Equipment: | Use a submersible water heater enclosed in a casing to prevent the turtle(s) from breaking the glass.
A reflector type fixture should house a 60 watt bulb (use a warmer one if the room if less than 65 dgF). |
Caging Provided: | A 30 gallon tank is minimal. A very minimal set up can consist of a concrete mixing tub. However, if you skimp on the setup, you’ll spend a lot of time cleaning it out everyday.
A more realistic set up is a 30 gallon (preferably larger) aquarium or pond equipped with a powerful external canister filter or a pump leading to a box filter.
In the tank you need a suitable basking site such as a rock, floating cork bark, a platform or a dock which the turtle can readily access to completely extend their limbs and dry off.
You can add a waterfall, fake plants, and hide caves. Do use your imagination to create a beautiful display, but also keep in mind that these animals will probably wreck the plants and require a fairly uncluttered swimming area. |
Diet: | Omnivorous |
Description of Diet: | Keep the diet varied to keep healthy animals. Feed every one to two days.
Use an aquatic turtle specific floating pelleted food as the staple in the diet. This provides the bulk of the nutrition for minerals and vitamins.
For plant matter, float romaine lettuce, kale and collared greens, or water sprite for the turtle(s) to graze on. Split seedless grapes, chopped carrots, chopped peppers (not spicy), and apple chunks are usual favorites.
For protein, don’t feed them dog food! Earth worms, feeder fish, snails, frozen then thawed tailless shrimp, cooked chicken and cooked fish fillets are all good choices.
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Supplements, Nutrition and Usage: | Calcium blocks or cuttle bone pieces provided in the water for the turtles to nip at provide sufficient calcium.
No other supplements are required if above diet is followed. |
Maintenance: | Turtles are messy. Water quality is a turtle owner’s highest priority. I would not dare not filter my turtles’ water so I would assume that you would be changing the water in an unfiltered tank every day! Ugh!
With a powerful enough filter, all the food and feces is broken down and filtered. The heated water provides pretty good evaporation. So adding clean water is about twice a week. Cleaning the filter media, twice a month and cleaning the entire enclosure every 3 months, or when required.
This is our routine with a 55 gallon pond, 3 RES and a power jet pump and box filter. Different enclosures will require different routines.
Every day maintenance involves a visual check of all fixtures and instruments. A visual assessment of the turtles’ general health, and feeding. Oh, and in my case, playing with them ( only necessary if you want really tame pets who respond and play with you). |
Some Words on this Species: | I have a ball owning turtles! It’s some hard work but it’s also extremely rewarding.
These are intelligent, attractive, and entertaining animals that have made our house a home. |
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