Care Sheet for TegusAverage Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 4.66 (1=lowest, 5=highest) Last Updated: 05/07/2003 |
Main Category: | Lizards |
Sub Category: | Tegus |
Care Sheet Submitted By: | Jif |
Years Experience: | 5 to 10 Years |
Species: | Tegu |
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover: | This information pertains to Argentine B/W Tegus, Red Tegus, and Blue Tegus. |
Sexing and Characteristics: | Male Tegus are larger than females and develop large jowls. They also have "spurs" which can be felt on either side of the vent. Breeding usually takes place in late spring, early summer with hatchlings arriving in early fall. Females can lay between 15 and 30 eggs. |
Mostly Active During: | Day |
Substrate and Water Needs: | A deep (8-12inches) digable substrate that will hold a burrow is best. Clean dirt mixed with sand or peat works well, as well as Cypress mulch. |
Lighting and UVB: | Hatchlings and juvenile Tegus benefit from UVB lighting as Metabolic Bone Disease can be an issue with this species when young. Established adults seem to do quite well without it. Tegus can be kept with lighting on 24/7 but a 12/12 photoperiod is also tolerated very well. |
Temperatures and Humidity: | Tegus enjoy a very hot basking temperature, ranging anywhere from 110 to 140 degrees. Of course, a cooler side of the enclosure should be available for thermoregulating. Night temperatures can drop into the 70’s. Tegus will hibernate or brumate in the winter months if the temps are dropped and a cooling period should be used if breeding is intended.
Tegus require moderately high humidity levels. Misting the substrate helps keep the humidity levels up as well as providing a large container of water in the enclosure, altho Tegus are not usually seen soaking. |
Heating and Equipment: | Halogen flood lamps are fairly economical to use for high basking temps. Mercury Vapor lamps that provide heat and high levels of UVB are beneficial to youngsters and adults alike. |
Caging Provided: | Argentine and Red Tegus can attain lengths of over 4 feet so a large enclosure is necessary. Eight foot long by 4 feet deep is ideal. Tegus are not climbers so 3 feet in height is sufficient. Blue Tegus rarely exceed 3 feet in length so a slightly smaller enclosure can be used. An almost totally solid enclosure is helpful in keeping humidity and heat levels up. All wood should be sealed with a reptile-safe sealer to prevent warping and rot. |
Diet: | Carnivorous |
Description of Diet: | Tegus are considered a Carnivorous species but most will readily accept some vegetables and fruit. Fruit, especially those containing Vitamin C are essential in the Red Tegu’s diet for proper skin maintenance and ease of shedding. A varied diet is best, alternating insects, rodents, eggs, and chopped meat. I mix the fruit and vegetables into ground turkey or beef heart and the animals seem to enjoy it. Hatchling and juvenile Tegus should be feed on a daily basis. As adults this schedule may be reduced to 3 times a week. |
Supplements, Nutrition and Usage: | A supplement such as Miner-all can be used. |
Maintenance: | Tegus are active, curious creatures and are very entertaining to keep. They tame quite easily altho they are not fond of being held much. Maintenance is not overwhelming. They do love to eat though and you must have a steady supply of food on hand. Some Tegus have a very strong feeding response, similar to some of the Monitor species. It is suggested that you feed out of the cage and also utilize a feeding bowl of some sort to minimize the chance of a feeding accident. |
Some Words on this Species: | A Tegu is a marvelous species to keep for someone who’d like a monitor-type lizard without the massive size and aggressive tendencies. Their color and patterns are gorgeous. The only 2 drawbacks that I can imagine are the cost of keeping them fed and the fact that they may hibernate for up to 5 months a year. The second one may compensate for the first one! |
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