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Okeetee corn snake Care Sheets
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Care Sheet for Corn Snakes

Average Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 4.57    (1=lowest, 5=highest)    Last Updated: 05/28/2006

Main Category:

Snakes

Sub Category:

Corn Snakes

 Care Sheet Submitted By:

Joshsnakeman

Years Experience:

5 to 10 Years

Species:

Okeetee corn snake

Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover:

All the different variations of corn snakes (i.e. Buttermilk, Albino, Christmas,etc.). They are also called red rat snakes. This care sheet may work for some of the rat snakes as well.

Sexing and Characteristics:

As a baby, they can be sexed by a method called "popping". This is making the hemipenes pop out by rubbing near the base of the tail. Do not try this unless you are an experienced herper. Get more information on this from books, and the Internet.

As an adult, the males have a wider, longer tail.

Another method is called "probing". This is inserting a thin metal rod into the cloaca. In a male, the rod will extend usually over 9 scale lengths, while in a female, it is usually 3-6. It is best to bring your snake to a vet or someone experienced in probing.

Mostly Active During:

Night

Substrate and Water Needs:

I have an exoterra water dish, large enough for the snake to completely soak herself in. I refill it every 1-2 days.

My substrate is bark chips. Some other safe substrates are aspen shavings, newspaper, and paper towel. i prefer looser substrates, as most corns love to borrow. It is best to replace it every month. Stay away from cedar or other aromatic substrates, as the fumes can cause respiratory problems. If mites are found on the snake (which happened to my snake once), quarantine the snake, throw out the substrate, bleach the entire cage and contents twice, and rinse it out twice. Spray the snake with Provent-A-Mite or similar spray.

Lighting and UVB:

Corns do not need UV. They get all of the vitamin D they need from their food. I use a regular 40 watt bulb for lighting purposes only, the heat is provided by a heat pad.

Temperatures and Humidity:

In the months of April to September, I try to have the ambient cage temperature at about 80 degrees Fahrenheit. In the winter, the temp is usually 70-75 degrees. The warmest place is about 90 degrees. At night, the tank can cool down to 70 degrees without ill effects.

I spray the warm end of the cage every day, although this is only necessary if you have a very dry house. Corn snakes do well with humidity between 30% and 60%. It is good to provide a "humid hide" , which is a hide with moist sphagnum moss in it. Your corn snake go in it near shedding time as it helps to loosen the skin.

Heating and Equipment:

An UTH, and a bulb for lighting purposes. Corn snakes are very tolerant when it comes to heat, but don’t let the temperature get below 60 degrees Fahrenheit or over 90 degrees Fahrenheit.

ALWAYS have screen between the bulbs and cage, because corn snakes are good climbers and WILL get burnt on the light. Keep the under tank heater under the tank.

Caging Provided:

I have a 48-inch corn snake in a 40 gallon. Corns will enjoy room to climb, but they also like to feel secure in a smaller cage.

A couple of hide boxes are necessary. One on the cool side, one on the warm side. A humid hide could be used near shedding time too.

Other decorations could include: branches, rocks, wood (make sure you sterilize them first by baking in the oven)

Plants are also good, though larger snakes may crush smaller plants, and a fluorescent bulb should be used to stimulate plant growth.

Diet:

Carnivorous

Description of Diet:

Snakes up to 18-20 inches can eat pinkies once to twice a week. Snakes up to 2-2.5 feet can eat fuzzie mice, snakes longer eat hoppers once a week. Adult snakes eat 1 adult mouse every 10-14 days.

If I let my snake, she will eat up to five fuzzies, or 2 adult mice, if not more. Do not overfeed as some corns will get obese.

Supplements, Nutrition and Usage:

The mice have all the calcium and vitamins the snake needs.

Maintenance:

Maintenance is very easy. Feed when necessary, spot clean the cage once a week, check the snake for good health at every handling (more info about this on the web and in books), and clean the cage entirely every 2 months or whenever necessary.

Some Words on this Species:

Corn snake are very hardy snakes and great for beginners. Only get a corn if you are up to the responsibility and wont get bored of the snake after a month.
Vet checks are good, they should be done at least 1 time each year. They tolerate a lot, and are readily available from breeders for $70.00 or less.
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DISCLAIMER:
The information contain in these care sheets represents only the opinions and husbandry care of members and therefore is not guaranteed to be 100% accurate or reflects the advice or opinions of RepticZone.com. It is always advised to seek additional information or the advice of a qualified veterinarian or qualified reptile dealer. It is also advisable for you to a good amount of research before implementing any of the ideas and care described in these care sheets. We also recommend you ask many questions in their related forums before acting on any information.

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