Care Sheet for Geckos: CrestedAverage Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 4.32 (1=lowest, 5=highest) Last Updated: 02/05/2005 |
Main Category: | Lizards |
Sub Category: | Geckos: Crested |
Care Sheet Submitted By: | 00Penguin |
Years Experience: | 5 to 10 Years |
Species: | Crested Gecko |
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover: | |
Care Sheet Information: | History and temperament: The crested gecko was thought to be extinct until it’s rediscovery in 1994. It is a relatively new gecko to the pet trade but is becoming a fast favorite. It is relatively docile and can be handled. Do not pull on your animal’s tail however and do not be too rough or handle it excessively. Do not hold it right after feeding (although this is probably irrelevant since crested geckos usually eat at night). Be careful when handling your gecko since they have a tendency to jump like a frog and may make a fatal jump into thin air!
Choosing a crested gecko: when purchasing a crested gecko you must check the animal carefully (yes this means holding it). Note these features: Does it look healthy? Is it alert and active? Make sure it is well fed; it should not look bony. Are its sides symmetrical? If not, it could have a growth or MBD (Metabolic Bone Disease) Are its limbs straight? Are its eyes bright? It’s vent should not have any smeared fecal matter on it.
Housing: The minimum cage size for a single adult crestie is 12x12x18. Multiple geckos may be housed in a cage 18x18x24 (both in inches). There should be climbing branches in the cage (I use bamboo because if you get a big enough tube the lizards can hide in it. Make sure you wash any bamboo you have collected before using it. Cresties also need foliage in the form of fake or live plants (fake are a lot more convenient) Hatchlings can be kept in small sweater boxes. I keep mine in 6 quart sterilite boxes (be sure to drill holes in the top for good air circulation) Also, an alternative set up is laboratory style, with PVC pipe and egg crate as cover. The only complaint i have against egg crate is it can mold in moist conditions.
Substrate: Paper towels work best for hatchlings (and adults) but don’t look very appealing. Lizards under the age of four months should be housed on paper towels but after that you can switch to coconut bark if you want (this comes in a dehydrated brick and can be bought at most pet stores or nurseries).
Now I have noticed a few care sheets saying crested geckos don’t need water dishes or they won’t drink from them. This is not true. Cresties should be provided with a shallow water dish for drinking. Crested geckos should also be misted at least once a day. Hatchlings should be misted twice a day.
Heating and lighting: since crested geckos are nocturnal no special lighting is needed as calcium absorbs ion. Unless your house is really cold (under 72 degrees) they will thrive at room temperature. Daytime temp should be 72 to 78 degrees while the nighttime temp can go as low as 69 degrees.
Feeding: Crested geckos eat insects and fruit. I usually feed mine fruit baby food with a little rep cal vitamins and calcium mixed in. I also feed them crickets dusted in calcium and vitamin three times a week. I give them fruit the other four. (I give mine extra calcium however because they are a breeding pair and need it) Also, if you can get your lizard to eat T-Rex’s Crested Gecko Diet that is a balanced diet and eliminates the need for crickets.
Breeding: Before you decide to breed your animals you should really buy a good book on crested geckos. I will however add a little info on breeding cresties. Sexing: Males have hemipenal bulges that the females lack. Mature healthy animals will breed without any special conditions. An egg box in the form of a large deli cup or Tupperware container should be provided with moist coco bark inside. Check for eggs frequently. Eggs can be incubated in a water perilite mix, two parts perilite to one part water by weight. They hatch at room temp but should be kept above 72 degrees
Health: Basically you should consult a vet if you believe your lizard is sick. Some red flags are: Smeared fecal matter on vent, losing body weight, anorexia, breathing with mouth open, or wheezing.
Recommended reading: REPTILES 2003 article “The Perfect Pet Gecko” By Allen Repashy, “The Crested Gecko in Captivity” by Robbie Hamper, and “Rhacodactylus” by Philippe de Vosjoli, Frank Fast, and Allen Repashy
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