Care Sheet for FrogsAverage Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 4.62 (1=lowest, 5=highest) Last Updated: 02/08/2005 |
Main Category: | Aquatic/Land |
Sub Category: | Frogs |
Care Sheet Submitted By: | Trine |
Years Experience: | 10 to 15 Years |
Species: | African Dwarf Frogs |
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover: | None. |
Sexing and Characteristics: | Females have very wide bellies and are distinctively larger than males. Males have a pale lump on their body behind their forelimbs, presumably to aid in clamping around a female’s body while amplexing (mating). Females tend to be the more active of the genders so during mating, it helps for him to have a very tight grip. To instigate mating, males will sing. This sound is very quiet and can best be described as an ascending chir. |
Mostly Active During: | Both |
Substrate and Water Needs: | The typical requirements for fish will suit an ADF just fine. You can keep up to two frogs in a one gallon aquarium, but not more. Even if you have only one frog, one gallon should be the minimum. These frogs can also be kept well in full sized tanks with small and very peaceful fish (although it is preferable to house them alone). If your tank is thin and tall however, it may be too laborious for the frogs to come up for air. A depth of around a foot and a half or so should be okay. Gravel substrate is recommended. |
Lighting and UVB: | They do not require lighting and should be fine under normal fluorescent tank lights. Remember that UV is not good for frogs. |
Temperatures and Humidity: | Temperatures should be in the seventies. Do not allow temperatures to drop into the mid to low sixties, they will not survive in such temperatures. They are tolerant of warm temperatures, but it is not recommended to allow the water to warm beyond eighty. |
Heating and Equipment: | Whatever heating system used for fish can also be used for frogs. Careful with filters though. Frogs like still water. No strong current should be present. |
Caging Provided: | Aquariums between 2-5 gallon. Gravel substrate. If you want to make them really happy, put in some live plants, and as they seem to really enjoy multi-level habitats (all underwater of course), rocks, small caves, driftwood are all recommended. (Especially the latter.) They need hiding places and don’t enjoy bare tanks. |
Diet: | Carnivorous |
Description of Diet: | You can feed them sinking frog pellets which can be found in virtually any pet store, but I prefer to feed them frozen bloodworms, tubifex worms, brine shrimp, etc. You should watch to make sure your frogs are eating. They are normally greedy eaters, but if by chance you have a finicky one, try dropping a live bloodworm or tubifex worm in front of its nose. Do not overfeed them. They should be fed every other day, as much as they can eat in ten minutes. |
Supplements, Nutrition and Usage: | Non needed. |
Maintenance: | Do a water change at least once a month. |
Some Words on this Species: | These guys are active and interesting. They breed easily under the above conditions, so be careful. If you don’t want to rear one hundred tadpoles, their parents and most fish will eat them. It’s sad, but it’s the best way to deal with unwanted tadpoles. DO NOT under ANY circumstances, let them go in the wild. If you do want to breed them, separate the parents from the eggs before they hatch. Eggs float. If they are incubated at 75-80 degrees, they will hatch in 5-7 days. They will not be able to move for about 24 hours after hatching. They will not be able to feed until 3-5 days have passed since hatching. Tadpoles are hunters and require very tiny live food such as infusoria or baby brine shrimp. Tadpoles are very sensitive to poor water quality, so do very frequent very small water changes, as large water changes can be stressful. They will physically mature within 4-6 months of hatching and sexually mature within 10-12 months of hatching. |
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