Average Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 4.18 (1=lowest, 5=highest)Last Updated: 02/18/2005
Main Category:
Lizards
Sub Category:
Geckos: Leopard
Care Sheet Submitted By:
Jamie and Robbie
Years Experience:
10 to 15 Years
Species:
Leopard Gecko
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover:
N/A
Sexing and Characteristics:
Its wrong to say Males will in all cases be larger than the females, that’s not always the case. Males usually have larger, more bull shaped heads.
Males have large bulges at the base of the tail. They also have a row of small darkened preanal pores just above the vent.
Females have a lack of the darkened scales.
Mostly Active During:
Night
Substrate and Water Needs:
OK, this is where both me and Jamie will probably be getting a lot of mails from other experienced Leopard Gecko owners.
SAND is fine as long as its not to fine. We both use Coral Sand in our many vivariums. We find this substrate beneficial as it replicates the geckos natural environment of Pakistan.
Other owners may use news paper, kitchen roll(paper) or bark/wood shavings.
I’d say don’t bother with shavings, that particular substrate can lead to health problems, so just stay clear.
Lighting and UVB:
As mentioned in the Heating and Equipment section of this care sheet, a Heat Lamp is required. This should be on for at around 12 hours per day. A good habit is switching the light on once you wake, and off again when you return from work etc.
UV lighting is not as essential as the heat lamp. The Leopard Gecko is a nocturnal species, so does not directly require any of the benefits of the sun light replicated from the UV strip. If you decide to use UV then work it on the same hours as you’re heat lamp.
Temperatures and Humidity:
The temperature at the hot side of the Viv should be between 80-90F. NO HIGHER! Humidity will control itself, providing you have a water dish in the tank, which you should have at all times! A quick blast with a common easy to buy spray bottle ever day will also help to boost humidity levels.
Heating and Equipment:
Leopard Geckos’ require a warm environment. A single heat lamp (60watt is acceptable). Also needed is a heat mat. Both the lamp and heat mat should be positioned at one end of the tank. This creates a warm/cold gradient. You’re lizard can then regulate its own body temperature at will.
Caging Provided:
A single Leo can be housed in a 10-Gallon tank. This is an inexpensive vivarium to buy, and is perfect size for any budding Leopard Gecko owner.
Two Leopard Gecko may be kept in a 10G tank, but any more than two should be kept in a 20G tank! 2 MALES SHOULD NEVER BE KEPT TOGETHER, REGARDLESS IF THEY ARE RELATED OR NOT!
Diet:
Carnivorous
Description of Diet:
Crickets will be the basis of you’re Geckos diet. These are easy to obtain from any good pet store or Herp shop. Choosing the right size of cricket is actually very easy; a cricket must not be any larger than one third (1/3) of a lizards head. Crickets should be dusted afew times a week using the method described in the ’Supplements and Usage’ section.
Other insects that can be added to the diet of you’re lizard include Meal Worm, Wax Worm and Pinkie Mice (for older Geckos’). Wax worm are very fatty, described as the Mars Bars of the Gecko world. Lizards can become addicted to them so feed in moderation.
Supplements, Nutrition and Usage:
A common supplementary powder commercially available to buy is ’Nutrobal’. This is, in our opinion, the best powder to use on crickets. A small pinch added to the bottom of a plastic sandwich bag is enough for 6 or so crickets. Do not overuse! Leopard geckos produce their own vitamin D3 from the UV light.
Maintenance:
Cleaning out lizard feces daily is good practice. Apart from that there is little you more you need to do. Clean out the sand if it gets too dirty eventually.. every six months is advisable.
Some Words on this Species:
If bought and handled from an early age, Eublepharis Macularius AKA Leopard Gecko will be a very social and friendly pet.
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